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By Nikson
Posts:  75
Joined:  Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:47 am
#385018
Hey all,

I got this Pinguicula cyclosecta online about a week ago, and when I got it, it came packed with some moss. When I removed the moss, it got stuck to the moss and fell out of the dirt, so I had to plant it back in. Didn't really see any roots on it at the time. I put the plant in a south facing window, put a little bit of water in a tray under its pot, and left it alone. The tray water is all gone now, and I'm just letting the pot of sand/moss stay moist and not refilling it yet, since it's just indoors.

It's been a little over a week and the plant is starting to look rough with its larger leaves turning brown and drying away. The center ones are still green, however. I THINK there's a new growth coming out of the center. Camera is having a hard time focusing on it.

Also I think my plant came with a second plant, as there's a little ping in the pot as well that looks like its starting to grow.

Am I doing anything wrong, or is this just acclimation like normal? Should I put it outside in the morning sun for an hour or two everyday? Less water?

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By Panman
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Posts:  2094
Joined:  Wed Mar 04, 2020 8:41 pm
#385032
I would keep it damp but bag it for humidity. Every day open the bag and refresh the air. Pings don't have huge root structures. I have one that I have accidentally uprooted a couple of times. Fortunately, it holds enough dirt around those few roots that it survives my mistreatment.
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By Nikson
Posts:  75
Joined:  Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:47 am
#385057
Yeah, I was surprised too! I got it from petflytrap.com since I was already getting something else from there and it was cheaper with shipping to just have two things come together. I bought it as a size "small" which on their website said just it would be a young plant in a 3 inch pot.

The picture for it was definitely like a more grown looking one inch plant like you said, but their website does have that disclaimer that says that pictures are just samples of what it looks like when it grows, not what you get in the mail necessarily. I took a gamble and that's what I got haha. It's my very first time buying these plants online in general, so live and learn, I guess!

I put it in a ziplock bag now still next to the window. I'm not sure if I should just put it outside on my deck under a table where it'll get some shaded light, or if I should just keep it indoors.

Here's what it looks like now, next to a deathcube venus flytrap that I repotted and the Judith Hindle that I got with the ping in the same order. (Both the VFT and the Sarracenia are both being acclimated to the outdoors, so that's why they're indoors right now).

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By jeff
Posts:  456
Joined:  Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:41 pm
#385089
really small, she will be hard to save

I would change the substrate, it's a limestone cliff plant.
let the substrate dry a little, before re-humidifying it
remove it from this zip bag and leave it outside in the shade
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By Nikson
Posts:  75
Joined:  Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:47 am
#385199
What would you recommend for the substrate?

For now I've removed it out of the bag and put it under a table on my patio where it has a lot of shade. Do you think I should just keep it out there permanently and let it get a lot of shaded sunlight?
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By jeff
Posts:  456
Joined:  Wed Sep 27, 2017 1:41 pm
#385229
my substrat for a lot of mexican and temperate ping
50% cat liter (non-clumping, unscented )
12.5% river sand
12.5% vermiculite (perlite)
12.5% pouzzolane
12.5 % calcareous sand

for me it is a good solution , but may be if it is possible use the morning sun to have on the border of the leaves a purple color of the most beautiful effect
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By Nikson
Posts:  75
Joined:  Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:47 am
#385630
Update:

The plant is still losing leaves. It had one dry up and fall off, and now this big one here is starting to change colors and die. However, the leaves in the center are still a healthy bright green and it looks like it's growing a new leaf in the middle?

The tiny little plant that also came with my plant seems to be growing larger too.

I moved the plant outside today into the shade, and I'm going to try that out instead of putting it on a windowsill. It keeps raining every night though, so I keep having to take the plant inside just in case it gets blown away or annihilated by raindrops though.

Is the plant ok? Or is it just kinda going to keep losing leaves until it dies?

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By Apollyon
Location: 
Posts:  1198
Joined:  Tue May 05, 2020 2:49 am
#385637
This might be a little late but I'll try to cover everything. I agree with the previous post, that is incredibly small. I've sold small pings like that but I'm always transparent and offer clumps so they're getting like 4-5 of them.

That aside, the best thing for this plant is to be consistent. Honestly, I'd suggest bagging it as Panman said. I've grown cyclosecta in both relative and high humidity and it seems to respond better under higher humidity (only time I got it to flower honestly). There isn't really a need to keep it in a tray of water if it's in high humidity as they don't particularly love to be wet. Media wise, I run a very course mix of equal parts peat, perlite, turface, silica sand and put some lime sand in there as well (1 tbsp. per ICPS). Honestly, your mix looks pretty close but I think I run less peat than that pot.

I'd personally flush the media with distilled water to knock out any minerals that may be there, bag it in a ziplock or dome it and keep it under a gooseneck led grow light (15 bucks on amazon) or something better if it's available. I wouldn't do shade. I'd keep it bagged until it started growing out a couple of leaves and keep it as consistent at possible. You don't want to constantly shock the plant by changing its environment. If you want it to really grow out faster. Keep it bagged for a couple weeks to let it adjust and then feed it something like bloodworms or Maxsea if you're confident.

The plant looks like it'll pull through fine if you're careful about it though so don't worry too much. You'll be able to tell pretty quickly if the crown is dying. If you *do* see that, I'd separate the leaves from the crown and do the same thing I suggested. I burned out a cyclosecta like that with maxsea and it came back from what I thought was certain death. They're tougher than most.
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By Nikson
Posts:  75
Joined:  Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:47 am
#385641
Apollyon wrote: Tue Jul 27, 2021 2:11 am This might be a little late but I'll try to cover everything. I agree with the previous post, that is incredibly small. I've sold small pings like that but I'm always transparent and offer clumps so they're getting like 4-5 of them.

That aside, the best thing for this plant is to be consistent. Honestly, I'd suggest bagging it as Panman said. I've grown cyclosecta in both relative and high humidity and it seems to respond better under higher humidity (only time I got it to flower honestly). There isn't really a need to keep it in a tray of water if it's in high humidity as they don't particularly love to be wet. Media wise, I run a very course mix of equal parts peat, perlite, turface, silica sand and put some lime sand in there as well (1 tbsp. per ICPS). Honestly, your mix looks pretty close but I think I run less peat than that pot.

I'd personally flush the media with distilled water to knock out any minerals that may be there, bag it in a ziplock or dome it and keep it under a gooseneck led grow light (15 bucks on amazon) or something better if it's available. I wouldn't do shade. I'd keep it bagged until it started growing out a couple of leaves and keep it as consistent at possible. You don't want to constantly shock the plant by changing its environment. If you want it to really grow out faster. Keep it bagged for a couple weeks to let it adjust and then feed it something like bloodworms or Maxsea if you're confident.

The plant looks like it'll pull through fine if you're careful about it though so don't worry too much. You'll be able to tell pretty quickly if the crown is dying. If you *do* see that, I'd separate the leaves from the crown and do the same thing I suggested. I burned out a cyclosecta like that with maxsea and it came back from what I thought was certain death. They're tougher than most.
Thank you so much for the detailed response, this is extremely helpful! Just a few questions for clarification, especially on the usage of growlights!

I've already flushed it out with distilled water when watering it yesterday, just basically poured water in until it started coming out the bottom, so I think I'm ok there?

For the ziplock bag method, do I keep it permanently bagged until it starts growing new leaves, or do I open it up to the air once a day just to give it some fresh air?

I've never used a grow light before, so is there a certain power level or wattage I should look for when getting one? Should I keep the light a certain distance away from the plant at the start? When using the growlight, how many hours a day should I keep it on for? Do I need to have the plant in a dark room that only has the growlight on, or is it ok if there's sunlight coming in as well?

Thanks so much for your help, just getting used to these crazy little babies haha.
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By Apollyon
Location: 
Posts:  1198
Joined:  Tue May 05, 2020 2:49 am
#385643
Nikson wrote: Thank you so much for the detailed response, this is extremely helpful! Just a few questions for clarification, especially on the usage of growlights!

I've already flushed it out with distilled water when watering it yesterday, just basically poured water in until it started coming out the bottom, so I think I'm ok there?

For the ziplock bag method, do I keep it permanently bagged until it starts growing new leaves, or do I open it up to the air once a day just to give it some fresh air?

I've never used a grow light before, so is there a certain power level or wattage I should look for when getting one? Should I keep the light a certain distance away from the plant at the start? When using the growlight, how many hours a day should I keep it on for? Do I need to have the plant in a dark room that only has the growlight on, or is it ok if there's sunlight coming in as well?

Thanks so much for your help, just getting used to these crazy little babies haha.
You're probably fine on the flushing thing. When you tray water, the water wicks up as do any residual minerals in the water. As the water evaporates, the minerals stay and compile over time. Flushing it allows those wicked minerals to exit and cleans it up. Be surprised at how much of a difference that can make. If you find your plants are looking ratty and you use RO water or even distilled over time, it's a good place to start.

As Panman said, open that bag every day or two just to recycle the air so it doesn't get stale. Becomes easy for mold to develop with no circulation. You can go longer so don't think its a death sentence if you don't open it every day and don't keep the bag open. Idea is to just push fresh air into it. Prolonged exposure will likely shock the plant.

Honestly pings are pretty flexible. If you have a place to mount a light, a cheap yescom panel will do the trick but even a full spectrum gooseneck grow light on amazon will do the trick in the here and now. Others may take a while and require someplace to mount them. If it's LED you can keep the light as close as you want honestly but I'd keep it in the 6-10 inch range on those goosenecks. I keep mine about 10 inches under my yescoms and about 18 under my T5s and the grow/color up fine. Gooseneck lights are weaker so you'll want them closer. You'll notice the plant turn that blue hue over time with decent light intensity.

I keep mine on anywhere from 10-16 hours a day depending on the time of year on a timer. As I said, it's important to be consistent. You don't want to turn it on at 8am one day and then noon the next. Pick a stable timeframe that works for you. In theory it's replacing the sun. An alternative would be to put it back by the window and let the sun handle it and use the light as a supplement for what it's missing through the window. I never noticed any drastic shift in plant behavior from the light in the window (my plants aren't by the window itself). They reacted when I changed their light photoperiod. No need to overthink it.
Pings aren't that temperamental.

No problem. I hope things work out.
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By Nikson
Posts:  75
Joined:  Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:47 am
#385644
Apollyon wrote: Tue Jul 27, 2021 3:22 am
Nikson wrote: Thank you so much for the detailed response, this is extremely helpful! Just a few questions for clarification, especially on the usage of growlights!

I've already flushed it out with distilled water when watering it yesterday, just basically poured water in until it started coming out the bottom, so I think I'm ok there?

For the ziplock bag method, do I keep it permanently bagged until it starts growing new leaves, or do I open it up to the air once a day just to give it some fresh air?

I've never used a grow light before, so is there a certain power level or wattage I should look for when getting one? Should I keep the light a certain distance away from the plant at the start? When using the growlight, how many hours a day should I keep it on for? Do I need to have the plant in a dark room that only has the growlight on, or is it ok if there's sunlight coming in as well?

Thanks so much for your help, just getting used to these crazy little babies haha.
You're probably fine on the flushing thing. When you tray water, the water wicks up as do any residual minerals in the water. As the water evaporates, the minerals stay and compile over time. Flushing it allows those wicked minerals to exit and cleans it up. Be surprised at how much of a difference that can make. If you find your plants are looking ratty and you use RO water or even distilled over time, it's a good place to start.

As Panman said, open that bag every day or two just to recycle the air so it doesn't get stale. Becomes easy for mold to develop with no circulation. You can go longer so don't think its a death sentence if you don't open it every day and don't keep the bag open. Idea is to just push fresh air into it. Prolonged exposure will likely shock the plant.

Honestly pings are pretty flexible. If you have a place to mount a light, a cheap yescom panel will do the trick but even a full spectrum gooseneck grow light on amazon will do the trick in the here and now. Others may take a while and require someplace to mount them. If it's LED you can keep the light as close as you want honestly but I'd keep it in the 6-10 inch range on those goosenecks. I keep mine about 10 inches under my yescoms and about 18 under my T5s and the grow/color up fine. Gooseneck lights are weaker so you'll want them closer. You'll notice the plant turn that blue hue over time with decent light intensity.

I keep mine on anywhere from 10-16 hours a day depending on the time of year on a timer. As I said, it's important to be consistent. You don't want to turn it on at 8am one day and then noon the next. Pick a stable timeframe that works for you. In theory it's replacing the sun. An alternative would be to put it back by the window and let the sun handle it and use the light as a supplement for what it's missing through the window. I never noticed any drastic shift in plant behavior from the light in the window (my plants aren't by the window itself). They reacted when I changed their light photoperiod. No need to overthink it.
Pings aren't that temperamental.

No problem. I hope things work out.
Awesome! I'll make sure to pick up an LED grow light and give that a shot then, thanks!

Also, one last question, I picked up one of those 15 dollar gooseneck LED lights, and it has the ability to have different colored lights. Is it better to just do the regular full spectrum "white" light, or should I run it under the purple lights? I've seen people do that with their set ups and I have no idea if that's something I should be playing with this early on.
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