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By Shadowtski
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Posts:  4724
Joined:  Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:19 am
#302650
I won some B52 x B52 seeds in a giveaway on another forum.
I planted them and they sprouted in 3 - 4 weeks.

This is the first time in many years that I'm growing VFT from seeds.
It's good to get out of your comfort zone and try something different.

You can see the first trap emerging in the plant on the left side of the photo.

Good growing,
Mike
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By Shadowtski
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Joined:  Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:19 am
#302661
mouthstofeed wrote:so will they grow up to be b52s?
No.
B52 is a registered cultivar.
The only way a registered cultivar can be propagated is by cloning.
A clone is genetically identical to the parent organism.
Even if you self pollinate one plant or cross pollinate two clones, the resultant seeds will have differences from the parent.
Sexual reproduction rolls the genetic dice. You never know what you'll get.

The proper ID on these seedlings would be Dionaea muscipula "B52 x B52".

So anyone selling B52 or Akai Ryu seeds are not selling the real thing.

Good growing,
Mike
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By Shadowtski
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Joined:  Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:19 am
#302698
Hungry Plants wrote:Nice Mike. Are you going to skip dormancy this year to let them grow?
Yes, I'll skip the first year's dormancy. They should be OK with that.

But they'll go outside late next Spring and I'll let the natural seasonal changes put them into dormancy for next Fall.

Good growing,
Mike
By hackerberry
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Posts:  1704
Joined:  Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:58 pm
#302699
Looks promising. Looks bigger that many seedlings that I've seen and sowed.
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By mouthstofeed
Posts:  477
Joined:  Fri Apr 07, 2017 1:07 am
#302728
Shadowtski wrote:
mouthstofeed wrote:so will they grow up to be b52s?
No.
B52 is a registered cultivar.
The only way a registered cultivar can be propagated is by cloning.
A clone is genetically identical to the parent organism.
Even if you self pollinate one plant or cross pollinate two clones, the resultant seeds will have differences from the parent.
Sexual reproduction rolls the genetic dice. You never know what you'll get.

The proper ID on these seedlings would be Dionaea muscipula "B52 x B52".

So anyone selling B52 or Akai Ryu seeds are not selling the real thing.

Good growing,
Mike
okay. so what's the point of mentioning b52 x b52?
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By DesertPat
Posts:  411
Joined:  Mon May 20, 2013 10:42 pm
#302733
mouthstofeed wrote:
okay. so what's the point of mentioning b52 x b52?
A specific cultivar crossed with itself is more likely to produce offspring which share similar traits. In this example the seeds will be more prone, though not guaranteed to produce plants with robust large traps.

It's a complex game of genetics. From what I understand (I have yet to do my own research though I will at some point) traits are more likely to be carried from the mother, where in the case of mother x father, father donates pollen...i hope I don't have to explain further. For example if I have seeds of origin DC XL x FTS Maroon Monster the seeds are more likely to produce larger traps due to the mothers traits but still have a chance of inheriting red growth from the father Maroon Monster. Keep in mind that any seed can produce any given combination of traits though no matter it's lineage. I hope I am explaining properly, this makes sense in my my mind but is difficult to concisely put to words.

Patrick

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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By Sharnee
Posts:  12
Joined:  Thu Nov 02, 2017 1:40 am
#306520
Any updates on these? :D I'm new here and scouring the forum for seed info eheh!
By Big-Jack
Posts:  357
Joined:  Sun Jun 12, 2016 7:46 pm
#306981
Cute little guys. I would use a toothpick and give each of those open traps a speck of blood worm for a nitrogen boost.
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By Shadowtski
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Joined:  Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:19 am
#306982
Big-Jack wrote:Cute little guys. I would use a toothpick and give each of those open traps a speck of blood worm for a nitrogen boost.
I was thinking toothpick and 1/4 tsp / gal MaxSea.
Traps will absorb nutrients without having to close and digest.

I'll wait until they are bigger to feed and trigger traps.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Good growing,
Mike
By SundewWolf
Posts:  2219
Joined:  Fri Mar 08, 2013 2:38 pm
#306983
Shadowtski wrote:I was thinking toothpick and 1/4 tsp / gal MaxSea.
I've seen that ratio before but I can't figure out why it's so low. I tried cutting it down to only make a 20 oz bottle worth of the mix, but it grew mold eventually. Now I have a small bottle with a dropper...maybe 1 oz?, and I fill it with water and 1 or 2 grams of maxsea. Seems to work fine for the Heli's and sundews for the past few months. As long as it doesn't get to the roots it doesn't have to be super diluted right? I assumed that 1/4 tsp / gal was for sprayer-type foliar fertilization and made purposely super diluted as it gets on the soil.
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By Shadowtski
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Posts:  4724
Joined:  Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:19 am
#306985
I've seen that ratio before but I can't figure out why it's so low. I tried cutting it down to only make a 20 oz bottle worth of the mix, but it grew mold eventually. Now I have a small bottle with a dropper...maybe 1 oz?, and I fill it with water and 1 or 2 grams of maxsea. Seems to work fine for the Heli's and sundews for the past few months. As long as it doesn't get to the roots it doesn't have to be super diluted right? I assumed that 1/4 tsp / gal was for sprayer-type foliar fertilization and made purposely super diluted as it gets on the soil.
I'm old-school and still nervous about the concept of fertilizing or foliar feeding CP.
Better too weak than too strong.

I mix up a gallon at a time in the Winter and 4 gallons at a time in summer.
I use a quart in a spray bottle to foliar feed adult CP.
I use a toothpick or needle to feed small or seedling CPs.
I use the rest to feed my non-CP plants, inside and outside.

Good growing,
Mike

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