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Discuss any carnivorous plant that doesn't fit in the above categories here or general chat about carnivorous plants

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By parker679
Posts:  1642
Joined:  Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:34 pm
#202579
Like Cory said, a Google search will yield a lot more results.

But to name a few...

Heliamphora
Cephalotus
Some Pinguicula
D. capensis
Nepenthes
S. purpurea venosa - This one is borderline.

Are you planning on growing indoors or is it just that you live in a place that doesn't get too cold in the winter?

I ask because there are people who grow a lot of plants in south Florida or the tropics that you'd typically say need a strong dormancy but they look ok. In some cases they may not flower or other minor issues but from what I've seen they plant do well enough. Now on the equator where you have pretty constant days and temps year round you may have issues. But as long as you have some sort of reduction in daylight and a temp drop in the winter it's worth a try.
By parker679
Posts:  1642
Joined:  Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:34 pm
#202602
greenxmonster5o8 wrote:growing indoors. just wanted some CPs that I could grow year round is all. thanks
Gotcha, the plants I listed would do fine indoors without having to worry about dormancy.

You can also start Sarracenia seeds and keep them indoors under lights for a couple years before they would need dormancy. Then just sell the seedlings off and start over.
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By Grey
Posts:  3255
Joined:  Mon Jul 26, 2010 3:48 pm
#202637
Hey there, you've been given some great advice so far. Here are some that don't require dormancy:


Mexican Pinguicula - Mexican pings techincally do not have a dormancy period, although they do have two growth states: carnivorous and succulent. The carnivorous state is when the plant produces carnivorous leaves and can catch prey; it will stay in this state through spring and summer, into late autumn (as long as it is watered). The succulent state is simply where the plant changes its leaf growth to non-carnivorous leaves during late autumn, through winter and into early spring. To induce this, you simply stop watering for several months, to reverse it, you start watering again. This is not techincally a dormancy, which is why I highlight these particular plants. They are still stunning to observe even during their succulent state, where they may continue to grow - albeit very slowly. They do not (and should not) die back during this time; the "winter dry period" is considered critical to their long-term health as these plants are sensitive to rot. You can find more info here, or check Pinguicula.org for individual species care.
  • * Pinguicula emarginata may be of particular interest to you; while this is considered a Mexican Pinguicula, it doesn't actually have a succulent state and will die if not kept moist, so I suppose one could consider it a "tropical" Pinguicula.

Warm Temperate Pinguicula - warm temperate pings typically don't have any form of winter dormancy period, they can be grown year-round and can be treated similarly to some terrestrial Utricularia. Some can be flooded with pure water every now and then and most prefer to stay moist year-round. They can be short-lived, but some have self-pollinating flowers which is very nifty. You can find more info here, or check Pinguicula.org for individual species care.
  • * Pinguicula primuliflora is, typically, a widely available warm temperate ping that is easy to grow and fun to watch; drought for this species is deadly and I really advise, if you look to buying one, getting one that's in a pot rather than sent bare-root so that moisture can be retained easier.
  • * Pinguicula lusitanica is a hardy warm temperate ping that can be grown from seed quite easily; you can go from seed to flowering-size plant in under a year, they are easy to care for. If this plant gets too cold (though it doesn't require warm winters by any means - it's native to the UK!) it can die back but return in spring, very slowly.

Utricularia - some utric species do not require any form of dormancy and are easy to grow, similarly to Drosera capensis in terms of ease. There are three groups of utrics: aquatic (underwater), epiphytic (air plants, similarly to orchids) and terrestrial (ground dwelling). Personally, I think terrestrial species would be easiest; many can be treated similarly to tropical drosera, they like a moist environment and enjoy being flooded on occasion - it really does depend on the individual species, though. Please note that most Utrics are often grown for their flowers; their traps are underground and they can have what some consider boring leaves... I like them but they aren't everyone's cup of tea.
  • * Utricularia sandersonii is a very easy terrestrial utric; it has lovely little flowers that are pale purple with purple markings, they look like kangaroos or rabbits. This plant has no dormancy and will happily fill its pot quickly if kept moist. During winter it may not flower as much and, to be honest, might die back a little but that depends on your growing conditions. Mine's kept on a windowsill so in winter it gets the tumbling cold of our British winters, so it dies back a little. It always comes back in spring and can take quite a beating.

There are also some Drosera species that have no dormancy period but, to be honest, I don't know any particular species. Heliamphora don't have a dormancy period but can be tricky to grow if you're new to carnivorous plants.
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By Cory
Posts:  1149
Joined:  Sat Jul 27, 2013 5:42 pm
#202699
Some of us have been growing for years. When you find something you like in your searches list it here and you can get some more exact care requirements of an Imparticular plant.


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By fattytuna
Posts:  749
Joined:  Sun Jan 22, 2012 4:00 am
#202701
Some species of Drosera include: D. spatulata, capensis, tokaiensis, burmannii (needs feeding), aliciae, admirablis, adelae, natalensis, dielsiana, coccicaulis. With the exception of the last three (I have yet to grow them), I have personally found them to be easy growers.
D. capensis is considered a very forgiving plant and will survive in all conditions. D. adelae thrives in 'lower' light levels, which might be useful if growing indoors.
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