FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

Outside of changing day length and watering amounts, does anybody have some methods they use to help move pings into summer/carnivorous grow patterns. I'd like to try to sync some of my slower plants with the coming summer months. Is it better to just let nature take care of things?

Bonjour

for my part I go out around May 15, when frost and cold are no longer feared here in France. Before , May 1 I begin to water but just with a dry period between watering.

then I let nature do the work

I haven’t found that daylength makes that much difference, and watering a lot when they’re still in winter mode can be a little risky. In my own experience the biggest factor seems to be temperature. Some species seem to need it a little warmer to wake up, and some perhaps a little cooler (or longer periods of cool temperatures perhaps?) to go dormant. For example, gypsicola is one of the first to go down on fall, and the latest to break dormancy in spring. A couple years ago we had a hot spell in late April and it started sending out summer leaves. Then it suddenly got cold again, and it sat that way for over a month until we finally got some consistent warm weather. Lautner 92/52 is usually late to go down for me...mine only went down in February this year and is still dormant. Many moranensis seem to behave this way for me. But not all. ANPA C is just waking up now. And some are unpredictable...I have some cyclosextas that are well into summer growth, others just changing, and one still dormant. All the same clone. Conclusion - they come from many different areas with a variety of temperature and rain regimes, so it’s hard to make them all act the same. I just let them tell me.




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Thanks bob. Nice pics too.

for me the temperature is not the triggering effect but the transition from the dry period to the wet period
see here :
http://www.lpc.uottawa.ca/data/americas ... exico.html
the period of rain as we see is from May to October in fact when the ping is no longer dormant.

At home in temperate countries, winter with these low temperatures is an aggravating factor, hence the need for it to always have temperatures above 5 ° C.

So...you shared a table of temperature and precipitation data, but what does that demonstrate about what actually triggers the break from dormancy in Pinguicula, let alone the responses of different species growing at different altitudes and conditions, to one stimulus or the other?


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the temperature of the areas that interest us between 900-2500m does not change much throughout the year , it seems to me, between 10-22 °c

on the other hand, the precipitates yes from a dry period to a wet period.

for all my Mexicans who have spent a dry season, since a week I begin to rehydrate them before leaving them outside, they start to wake up, here are some of them here , about ten species
http://pinguicula.free.fr/mex2019.JPG

Are these average temperatures for the areas? Our plants are almost all high-elevation species, but your table does not take elevation into account, or day-night differences. In many high-elevation areas where these plants grow, the temperatures reach close to freezing at night. Check the temperature data for different species on pinguicula.org and a very different picture emerges.

My plants grow under lights; most of them are under LEDs that don’t make much heat. But the window stays open most of the time. They stay just moist through the winter, and in spring they wake up, some later some earlier. Can you think of another factor that could be causing this?




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In-situ they don’t seem to have very variable temps from season to season, but I have noticed that colder temps during the winter and warmer temps during summer in cultivation seem to cue most of them.

Bonjour

in the area from 900 to 2500 m , we have a average temperature from 10-22°c with may be , at night, lower temperatures I admit.
but from there to have negative or near zero temperatures, I have a doubt,I think the cold on normal or succulent leaves would not do anything good at the plant cell level.

For my part, I have tried negative temperature on hybrids, results such as high temperatures , cooked leaves and dead plants.
for the temperees it's also a problem if they have not done their hibernaculae.

for my part all my Mexican in winter are in my garage, in front of a window facing south, at a temperature of 9-15 ° C, dormant in the dry, they wake up only when there is watering by capillarite it's time for me to go outside.
I still respect for many years this seasonality, dry from October to May, watering and outside from May to October, thus inspiring me Mexican conditions.

we have each specific conditions and it's great to discuss it