FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

Hey guys I own a Pinguicula Gigantea x Laueana and I was wondering do I have to let it get its succulent leaves or can I let it grow and stay with it’s carnivorous leaves? Because I have a lot of fungus Knats and little flying insects in my home and it’s been doing a good job capturing them.


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There’s no dormancy as a physiological requirement like there is in temperate plants, and some people keep plants in “summer mode” for long periods. Gigantea doesn’t have a succulent mode while laueana does. I haven’t grown that plant long enough to see how it behaves but I notice laueana often seems to bloom in the “transition” between succulent and summer growth. Other species tend to bloom almost exclusively during winter growth, or mainly as the plants “wake up,” so if you care about flowers, letting them transition can be a good idea.


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Bob Beer wrote:There’s no dormancy as a physiological requirement like there is in temperate plants, and some people keep plants in “summer mode” for long periods. Gigantea doesn’t have a succulent mode while laueana does. I haven’t grown that plant long enough to see how it behaves but I notice laueana often seems to bloom in the “transition” between succulent and summer growth. Other species tend to bloom almost exclusively during winter growth, or mainly as the plants “wake up,” so if you care about flowers, letting them transition can be a good idea.


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oh okay thank you so much, I don’t really care much for the flowers, I love the plants the way they are and it’s really nice to watch the knats and other really small insects get stuck on the leaves, Will it be okay if I let it stay with it’s carnivorous leaves this winter?


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Bonjour

for me, most of them need a period of dormancy , including gigantea, which at my place goes from 40 cm in diameter to 15 -20cm when they are dormant.

'in situ' plants usually go through a dry period from October to May and a rainy season from May to October.

be careful, when you leave them without dormancy , at their life span and also at the rot that can settle down

I think problems are mostly when things are cold and wet too, or when things are too wet when they’re just coming back. Often the plants will just take the cue from the humidity and temperatures (or some other factor...they can be mysterious!) and go into winter mode on their own. Best to just follow their cue. Occasionally you’ll get a plant that stays in winter mode for a long time and comes out late, or, if things are too warm, do a sort of “halfway” transition. I have one red laueana that has grown in winter/succulent mode for almost a year and is just now coming out. Who knows why?


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for the Mexican ping, the dormancy is not a winter period as for the temperate ping, but rather a reaction to a dry period,
hence their succulence .

their means to it to spend the dry period without much damage , they live during this period on their succulence(their ability to store water in their leaves)often also at the same time we notice the leaves may be covered with wax or hair, or have a reduction of their surface ...

for your laueana, maybe you had a problem of drought or water stress

No, there was no drought. It was in the same conditions as other plants, many of the same size, and in decent humidity. Sometimes they can get confused, for lack of a better word, especially when you have a sudden change of conditions, as when someone sends you a plant from a very diffeeent climate.


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Bonjour

what substrate use you for this laueana ?

Capillarite is doing well, with this layer of gravel?

Turface, pumice and fine perlite with a little iron. Before it was in a mixture that included a little peat but it grew too much moss.


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Bonjour

have you tried Mid-fine river sand to ensure better capillarity.

jeff

jeff wrote:Bonjour

have you tried Mid-fine river sand to ensure better capillarity.

jeff

I want to try some fine silica. But this seems to stay moist unless I let things dry out, and the fact that the surface dries a bit helps prevent moss that can choke out the plants.


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Bonjour

you know Moss (when I'm talking about moss it's not sphagnum) does not stifle adult ping, except maybe very small species like nivalis - immaculata and more, or the juvenils.

I use always fine river sand for all my ping in mineral substrate ,as a binder of the various materials, and thus to send to the roots the water during capillarite

Moss has it's ups and downs. It can choke out smaller Pings, and compete for water, also, the moss roots seem to "bind" the soil together. In many cases, this is a good thing, it makes taking leaf pullings easier when you know the plant isn't going anywhere, but if you want to sell or re-pot that plant, it can be much tougher than pots with no moss where the plant can just be plucked out. It can also harbor bugs, but again, that's a mixed bag

Ultimately I usually go with what I prefer aesthetically in any given pot.

I’ve seen moss turn into such a thick solid mat that roots can’t even get through it. It’s especially troublesome when I have small pullings coming along.


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jeff wrote:Bonjour

you know Moss (when I'm talking about moss it's not sphagnum) does not stifle adult ping, except maybe very small species like nivalis - immaculata and more, or the juvenils.

I use always fine river sand for all my ping in mineral substrate ,as a binder of the various materials, and thus to send to the roots the water during capillarite

That makes sense. Fine perlite seems to do the same but I want to try fine sand as well.


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