Phalaenopsis Orchid Dormancy

Phalaenopsis Orchid Dormancy#251349

By hjsullivan -  Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:34 pm
Posts:  7
Joined:  Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:00 pm

- Wed Nov 25, 2015 2:34 pm #251349

Hi there!

This time last year I purchased a Phalaenopsis Orchid from a local grocery store (Stop and Shop). It did very well through it's blooming phase and dropped all it's petals. It has some new growth, but hasn't bloomed yet. I live in Massachusetts and it's pretty cold here already (high 20's last couple days).

When can I expect it to bloom again and what should I be doing to help it? I did re-pot it last weekend as the substrate was clearly old and needed to be changed. I also snipped the stock off the little elbow things there, watched some videos. I attached a couple photos prior to it being re-potted, I will follow up with some later, when I get home, in it's new pot.

Just trying to figure all this stuff out

.
You all have been remarkably helpful with my quest for keeping my Fly Trap alive!

Thanks in advance!
h

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Re: Phalaenopsis Orchid Dormancy#251354

By evenwind -  Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:02 pm
Location:  Long Island, NY
Posts:  2178
Joined:  Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:16 pm

- Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:02 pm #251354

Umm, okay.
First, have you done any research on the internet? You might want to start here: http://www.orchidweb.com/phalaenopsiscare.html

A large Phal like yours basically blooms once a year. The flowers should last for many months and you might even get a re-bloom if you're careful about trimming the bloom spike. Since it was in bloom when you bought it, I'd count back maybe six months or so. If all goes well, that's the month you should first see the new spike starting.

There's a couple of things you said that I'm curious about - Are you planning on keeping it outdoors? I'm not sure why you're concerned about the outdoor temps. Phals are tropical and need to be keep warm. They also need low light. Direct sun will fry them pretty quickly.

Also, I don't know what you mean by "I also snipped the stock off the little elbow things there". Are you talking about the lumpy end parts of the roots? If you are, that was a mistake.

What did you use for your fresh potting medium? Phals, like almost all cultured orchids, are epiphytic plants. That is, the roots must have free access to air. Media like bark chips or lightly packed Sphagnum are common. Anything that looks like "dirt" is going to kill the plant quickly.

Phals are particularly hearty so don't worry to much about any initial mistakes. Just get it set up right and it should do fine.

As Robin Hood examined the small bag of plunder, he learned a Life Lesson: Never steal from the rich when they’re out walking the dog.

Re: Phalaenopsis Orchid Dormancy#251365

By hjsullivan -  Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:52 pm
Posts:  7
Joined:  Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:00 pm

- Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:52 pm #251365

I actually went onto the website listed on the plants tag and downloaded all of the information I could that came with it (see link to my Dropbox folder here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zuwqb9czdzxa ... KSVba?dl=0).

Not planning on keeping it outside, ever, but I do feel like knowing the region helps. For instance, if I were in Florida, it would be incredibly humid lol, not sure how that affects these things.

Right now the plant is in my living room, which has a large pane-glass window, but is kept out of direct sunlight. I re-potted into a larger ceramic pot with several drainage holes (said great for Orchids right one the pot). I'm using a bark type mixture that has charcoal and something else in it specifically for Orchids.

And the stick that had the blossoms, is that the spike? Because that's the part the video instructed me to trim down to right above the little new growth area.

Re: Phalaenopsis Orchid Dormancy#251376

By evenwind -  Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:32 pm
Location:  Long Island, NY
Posts:  2178
Joined:  Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:16 pm

- Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:32 pm #251376

hjsullivan wrote: And the stick that had the blossoms, is that the spike? Because that's the part the video instructed me to trim down to right above the little new growth area.

Yup, that's the spike

Or, more formally, the inflorescense. I looked at the instructions that you downloaded and I mostly agree with them. I typically don't cut a still-green spike all the way down, just to the node below the last bit of browning. On the other hand, not all of the mass-produced Phal hybrids are going to reflower on the same spike anyhow. My biggest problem with your instructions is the idea of using ice cubes to water. This is a relatively new idea and may even become the standard as time goes on. But right now, the conventional wisdom is to use de-clorinated, room temperature water. If you're using a bark mix, you hold the pot over a sink or bucket and pour the water thru so there's a lot of run-off. As far as fertilizer, it's "weakly, weekly", or half (or quarter) strength every week or two.

It's my belief that the mass produced Phals aren't bred for subsequent blooming. Not that they can be stopped from blooming, it's just not a characteristic that the clones are chosen for. Instead, they'd be bred for lots of big, long lasting flowers and then "pushed" to get them to bloom at a particular time of year. Anything beyond that becomes unimportant. After all, they'd much rather sell you another plant then a bag of medium.

From what I've seen so far, you're on the right track. If your Phal's happy it should spike within 6 months or so.

As Robin Hood examined the small bag of plunder, he learned a Life Lesson: Never steal from the rich when they’re out walking the dog.

Re: Phalaenopsis Orchid Dormancy#252773

By gardengirl13 -  Mon Dec 21, 2015 10:01 pm
Posts:  27
Joined:  Sun Dec 20, 2015 6:48 pm

- Mon Dec 21, 2015 10:01 pm #252773

Most phals send up spikes this time of year. If yours was in bloom and has now faded it was forced to bloom to sell. Expect it to spike again next Oct-Dec with flowers Dec-Feb. I find that the glazed pots can sometimes harm my orchids so they are all in terracotta now. Where the roots touched the glaze they rotted. This might have been just the pots I bought, but they were not all the same company. Plus terracotta is way cheaper. It's more expensive but check out repotme, they have great mixes for orchids! I also use their feed me! fertilizer. Since switching from store bought local mix and ferts to theirs my plants are done some serious growing!!

I used to keep them in my east windows in my last two places we lived, this new house we just moved into the east window burned them! I have no clue why since two rentals ago was literally just across the street! But now I grow under lights.

I'm not sure about where in MA you're in but I'm not too far from MA and our water is SUPER hard, I used to water the tougher orchids with it and they were fine, but when we moved into town for a little bit I stopped due to the chlorine. Since then I have rain barrels that I use for the houseplants and orchids. I water weakly weekly, basically I bring the pots over to the sink cover the whole with my finger and fill it with water. Hold it for a bit while the water soaks in, then drain. Then water with the fert (I use 1/4 strength plus a tiny bit of vodka and a tiny bit of seaweed emulsion) the same way and drain really well.

It'll need more light then the livingroom, you might need to gradually bring it closer to the window depending on the direction it's facing. Once it's flowering again you can move it into the room more to display.

Careful though they become addicting! After a year of keeping one and reblooming it I kept adding more. After 4 years I think I'm up to 28! And yes I have gotten some from Stop N Shop and Hannafords and they've done well.

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