FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

I have no idea what these are. The box said botanical wonders was the grower. They are light sensitive and cold sensitive. The first pic is indoors with LEDs. The 2nd was after they got frozen, my fault. Anyway, they seem to do best in the shade. Are some Sundews more sensitive to sunlight? Maybe I should either keep it inside or put it in the shade? BTW the babies that are underneath the Sundew look great.

Sent from my KYOCERA-C6742A using Tapatalk

Nearly all sundews do best in full sun. Unfortunately many like the ones you purchased were grown in low light originally and need to be slowly adjusted to strong light to avoid burning them.

Yep they need more light for sure.

KategoricalKarnivore wrote:Yep they need more light for sure.

Ok thank you. I have tried acclimating them but probably going too fast still. I will try to go slower.

Sent from my KYOCERA-C6742A using Tapatalk

put them in a some deep shade first. they will die if you stick them directly in the sun.

mouthstofeed wrote:put them in a some deep shade first. they will die if you stick them directly in the sun.

A healthy plant will not die if you stick it in direct sun. Is it possible it will appear dead? Yes, but 9 times out of 10 it will bounce back.

OP

Start with about 3-4 hours of early morning sun then shaded light the rest of the day. By shaded I mean under an awning where it does not receive any direct rays. When you see a new leaf forming, give it an hour more direct sun. Working your way up until it's getting all day full sun.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

boarderlib wrote:

mouthstofeed wrote:put them in a some deep shade first. they will die if you stick them directly in the sun.

A healthy plant will not die if you stick it in direct sun. Is it possible it will appear dead? Yes, but 9 times out of 10 it will bounce back.

That's true, the root stock won't die. But the leaves will die if they are not used to direct sun, and if the plant is sickly AS THE OP'S PLANT APPEARS TO BE, it will likely not rebound.

We are not discussing healthy plants so why are you bringing such an irrelevant thing up?

boarderlib wrote: OP

Start with about 3-4 hours of early morning sun then shaded light the rest of the day. By shaded I mean under an awning where it does not receive any direct rays. When you see a new leaf forming, give it an hour more direct sun. Working your way up until it's getting all day full sun.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Notice the relevant advice that you decided to miss? You see the part that says OP, you know original poster. The part I go on to explain the process other than "put them in deep shade." Real solid advice. Deep shade implies no sun. That'll get that plant off to a good start. Maybe you should tell him to keep it submerged in water during this time.

mouthstofeed wrote:
That's true, the root stock won't die. But the leaves will die if they are not used to direct sun, and if the plant is sickly AS THE OP'S PLANT APPEARS TO BE, it will likely not rebound.

We are not discussing healthy plants so why are you bringing such an irrelevant thing up?

Leaves die constantly throughout the growing season on healthy plants, so what does that have to do with anything? It's a fact with plants. New leaves grow, old leaves die.

The OP's plant is by no means unhealthy, lack of dew does not mean a plant is unhealthy. Unhappy yes, not unhealthy. There is a difference, a BIG difference between the two. I wouldn't think twice about frying this plant by throwing it in the sun and letting it cook. But hey I guess that's what 3-4 years of experience will teach someone.

This advice "that putting a plant in direct sun will kill it" is a crock. It's misinformation and its leading newer growers away from the hobby because they don't know any better. They put their plants in direct sun, and fry them then throw them away, not realizing it will normally grow back if they just leave it be. Do I recommend this method? No, I don't. But it is an effective means of transitioning plants. I do it every spring when I take my drosera outside. Note the every spring part, that means I've transitioned drosera from indoor to outdoor and back indoor because my weather will not allow me to grow them outside year round, and yes this includes subtropical/tropical drosera. What do I know though.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I grow a bunch of Drosera from seed indoors. When they are big enough to go outside I throw them right out into direct all day sun and they do just fine. Some leaves may get a little toasty and loose dew for a while but they always continue to grow. Putting a plant in direct sun usually won’t kill it unless it’s unhealthy. And I agree the OPs plants aren’t unhealthy just need a little more light. As always, you can take boarderlib’s advice to the bank. He knows a thing or two about these plants.

boarderlib wrote:

boarderlib wrote: OP

Start with about 3-4 hours of early morning sun then shaded light the rest of the day. By shaded I mean under an awning where it does not receive any direct rays. When you see a new leaf forming, give it an hour more direct sun. Working your way up until it's getting all day full sun.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Notice the relevant advice that you decided to miss? You see the part that says OP, you know original poster. The part I go on to explain the process other than "put them in deep shade." Real solid advice. Deep shade implies no sun. That'll get that plant off to a good start. Maybe you should tell him to keep it submerged in water during this time.

mouthstofeed wrote:
That's true, the root stock won't die. But the leaves will die if they are not used to direct sun, and if the plant is sickly AS THE OP'S PLANT APPEARS TO BE, it will likely not rebound.

We are not discussing healthy plants so why are you bringing such an irrelevant thing up?

Leaves die constantly throughout the growing season on healthy plants, so what does that have to do with anything? It's a fact with plants. New leaves grow, old leaves die.

The OP's plant is by no means unhealthy, lack of dew does not mean a plant is unhealthy. Unhappy yes, not unhealthy. There is a difference, a BIG difference between the two. I wouldn't think twice about frying this plant by throwing it in the sun and letting it cook. But hey I guess that's what 3-4 years of experience will teach someone.

This advice "that putting a plant in direct sun will kill it" is a crock. It's misinformation and its leading newer growers away from the hobby because they don't know any better. They put their plants in direct sun, and fry them then throw them away, not realizing it will normally grow back if they just leave it be. Do I recommend this method? No, I don't. But it is an effective means of transitioning plants. I do it every spring when I take my drosera outside. Note the every spring part, that means I've transitioned drosera from indoor to outdoor and back indoor because my weather will not allow me to grow them outside year round, and yes this includes subtropical/tropical drosera. What do I know though.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Not talking about regular die-off of leaves. What does that have to do with anything?

I'm talking about mass die-off due to exposure to direct sun. When that happens, the plant has to come back from nothing, and sometimes it can't. Just warning the OP is all.

Deep shade does not mean no sun. It means in a place that doesn't get direct sunlight any part of the day. Of course it gets light, just not direct.

First and foremost my apologies for taking over your thread FTH. You are good enough with fly traps that you should have no issues with drosera given a little time. Don't over think this.

KategoricalKarnivore wrote:He knows a thing or two about these plants.

I don't know if I would go as far as to say two, but I definitely know a little something

mouthstofeed wrote:.

I'll preface this by saying I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to approach you because of my position in the community. I've worked to hard to let you screw up what I've worked to achieve. Now on the other hand I'm pretty sure the board members will support me 100% as long as I don't go to overboard. So, let's see where this conversation goes.

mouthstofeed wrote:they will die if you stick them directly in the sun.

Point blank! This statement is incorrect, wrong, not right, a bold faced lie! You posted this piece of misinformation. There's no amount of trying to change the subject, or back peddling, or finger pointing going to change that. You sir are wrong! There are no ifs ands or buts about it. Wrong, wrong, and wrong some more

mouthstofeed wrote: That's true, the root stock won't die.

The root stock is part of the plant as a whole, so here you admit that I am right, and your first response was, wait for it....WRONG!

mouthstofeed wrote:put them in a some deep shade first.

Guess what, you sir are wrong again. What you are referring to here is this thing known as shaded light, see my quote.

boarderlib wrote: Start with about 3-4 hours of early morning sun then shaded light the rest of the day. By shaded I mean under an awning where it does not receive any direct rays.

mouthstofeed wrote: Just warning the OP is all.

You were misinforming the OP, is what you were doing. You told him putting it in full sun WILL kill it. Which is simply not true. Just because you can't do it, doesn't mean a real grower can't.

Now, to address yet another issue, the health of this plant. I reiterate for what the third or fourth time, this plant is NOT UNHEALTHY. It is unhappy, which yet again is NOT the same thing as unhealthy. I do understand your confusion though, especially with your track record at growing these plants. I refer you to this post made by you

mouthstofeed wrote:i started with one vft in 2016. i really didn't do too good with it, but it survived somehow.

i think you are better off learning by doing in this case. maybe it's just me but you're gonna kill a lot of plants when you just start up. this year i killed: four pitcher plants, a bunch of venus fly traps, the drosera adelae (small and giant) i transplanted into salty coco peat soil, during the height of summer, the capensis giant seedlings fishman sent me, which i had transplanted into the bad coco peat before realizing how terrible it was, most of the seeds i tried to germinate, three pinguiculas, and a capensis i almost nearly dried out and i don't know if will survive.

i haven't written up my list but i guess here is as good as anywhere.

VFT - typical, B52, King Henry, DC-XL, Royal Red
Sarracenia - Ladies in Waiting, Abandoned Hope, Green Monster, Mardi Gras, Minor
Nepenthes - Sanguina, Ventricosa
Drosera - Adelae (small and giant), prolifera, Binata extrema, regia, intermedia

Also I am growing successfully some seedlings finally. Capensis, burmanii, and finlaysonia

First lets point out the lie in this post, in the what I can only assume is supposed to be a paragraph you state you killed your adelae. But at the bottom it shows them in your grow list. Something dead is not growing. Your list is not that long, you can't delete a line from it. Oh wait that was one post you lied to make it look better.

I guess this track record does make you think you have any right to comment on the health of anybody's plants, considering you can't seem to keep anything alive. I also guess they changed the meaning of "growing successfully" while I was away. I was under the impression too be considered "growing successfully" that meant for more than a year, but hey I guess a couple months makes you successful. Wait has it even been a couple months since you killed a plant?


Do you have an issue with diarrhea of the mouth? Or is your little dog complex effecting your ability to shut up and learn from us experienced growers? All I've seen is your badgering, ill informed posts that I guess you know from reading off that there good ole internet machine. Here's a tip, sit down, shut your pie hole, and listen to us experienced growers. You know the ones who have hands on experience at actually being successful. Which I'm sorry to say is NOT you. Okay, I'm not sorry to say that, you caught me

You've badgered and been a little sarcastic sh!t to to many people on here and the buck stops now. I will personally promise you right now, I will be on your a$$ with every wrong, misinformed post you make from here on out until you a) change your little attitude (which I sincerely hope you do this) and become a helpful productive member or b) until we run you off. It's your call on how you want to handle this situation going forward.

Oh yeah and one more thing, stop asking for every hand out you see. It makes you look douchy. Nobody likes a free loader, and that is exactly how you come across, a smarta$$ little free loader.

Oops I'm not done yet, when you think about coming back with your relevancy bs, just step away from the computer because your actions are enough to warrant the irrelevant information. Oh but wait again, your recent past history seems very relevant to the fact you are giving advice on a subject that you have no experience with

Happy growing mouthstofeed, may you actually learn how to be successful at growing and not being a douche.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I think acclimation is best. Deep shade isn’t going to help that. Hot direct sun may kill a lot of leaves off and shock the plant, which can slow its recovery, though I have taken Lowe’s death cube plants and stuck
them straight into the sun, outside, and had them bounce back. The danger is less inside, since ultraviolet doesn’t come through glass.

If you have an east window, I’d start with that - bright morning sun but no hot afternoon rays. Once it starts showing some growth, move it into a south window. Alternatively you could place it back from a south window (at 1.5 feet away the light intensity is half what it is at the glass). Or you could put it under lights.

I have the same Drosera, and am growing it under T5s now. It had no dew on it when I got it. Didn’t freeze it tho. I put it right under the lights. That was 2 weeks ago. Here it is now. You can still see the dew-less leaves (they usually don’t start producing dew themselves but they’re still photosynthesizing, so leave them there).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yall are killing me. You can approach the situation a variety of ways. You can just throw it in full sun and roast off the etiolated leaves, new ones will be strong but the plant will be ugly for possibly quite a while, or you can acclimate it.

And sure, correcting nomenclature about “die-off” versus just straight dying is important, but you don’t gotta be hostile. Don’t flex your your plants unless it pertains specifically to the advice at hand, either.

hi im new to cps, just got an order from lees botanical gardens for a great price, but was wondering if someone new of a nursery near hillsborough or tampa, thx

Sorry to derail this thread a little more - but I gotta help a Floridian out lol

dayo1403 wrote:hi im new to cps, just got an order from lees botanical gardens for a great price, but was wondering if someone new of a nursery near hillsborough or tampa, thx

Hey Dayo, this post may get more answers in a separate thread (and an Admin may end up moving us elsewhere), but as far as I know, besides Lee's and Sunbelle, there aren't any nurseries specializing in carnivores in Florida (strangely enough). This being said, there is usually a vendor or two selling some carnivorous plants at the USF Botanical gardens plant sale (here). They had Sarracenia, flytraps, and Nepenthes ventrata and Miranda (ew) when I went but they weren't exactly the most knowledgable about the plants and they didn't exactly offer the information you would usually need to grow them. Plants looked healthy enough and one vendor had clearly been actually growing them instead of just selling TC plants.