Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:34 pm
P. nahuebutensis seems to be quite tolerant of a wide range of lighting. I've kept my P. nahuelbutensis outdoors in full sun, indoors under T5HOs, as well as under T8s. All options seem to work equally well, although I've noticed that full sun doesn't pair well with hot temps (80 degrees and up) if the plants had been damaged by dry winds over the winter. P. nahuelbutensis can develop a red/bronze color if it gets many hours of full sun. I believe I only get about 6 or so hours of full sun on average while my plants are outdoors, so some of mine develop a bronze color. I have pictures of the plants in-situ in very exposed spaces where they were nearly red. Higher light also seems to help in getting the flowers to develop a light pink color. Typically, they are white/light lilac.
P. nahuelbutensis grown under T5HOs (2017). These are kept in my basement, so temps under the lights are low 80s max. I bring my nahuelbutensis and other cold-temperate Pinguicula under them for the summer to keep them cool. The nahuelbutensis always look good this time of year, as the dryer conditions outdoors prevent the dew droplets from getting large: P. nahuelbutensis seedlings grown under T8s: P. nahuelbutensis growing outdoors in full sun, photographed in late April/early May of 2019: Photos of P. nahuelbutensis in-situ where the plants get lots of direct sun (Photo credits: Pablo Villegas Cabera)
P. nahuelbutensis comes from a temperate latitude of Chile (Nahuelbuta National Park). As such, it should be given a cold, near or below freezing winter, and a cool summer. If the plants are not given a winter period to slow down growth, the plants appear to collapse, although sending out many offshoot plants in the process:
Picture of plant collapsing, likely due to a lack of a cold period. It died completely not long after the photo was taken. The second flowering plant started to collapse as well, but ceased when moved into colder temps A maximum of 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit during the day seems to be appropriate to get P. cnahuelbutensis to enter a full dormancy. P. nahuelbutensis seems to be able to handle temps into the high teen very easily. They overwinter with their carnivorous leaves, as they are a homophyllous species. The leaves are very resistant to freezing temperatures: Where I live in Portland, OR, we often experience strong, dry winds from the Columbia river gorge whenever it freezes. P. nahuelbutensis is quite sensitive to drying out during freezing temperates. Care must be taken to protect them from winds and dry air during periods of freezing, else the plants may end up looking like this: Fortunately, freezing winds only seem damage older foliage. Here are the plants 3 days after my freezing wind incident, note how even smaller plants recovered their desiccated leaves. The best way to protect P. nahuelbutensis from damage during freezes is to have them be covered in snow or ice, they always emerge looking great as the snow melts: Once temps start warming up and the plants resume growth, the plants that are large enough should start flowering. A friend of mine who grows P. nahuelbtuensis says that his plants will flower all the way through spring and summer, as long as temps remain cool. Typically, flowering begins around April-May for me, and stops in late June.
Damage from freezing winds seems to set the plants back through spring, note how small the flowering 2017 plant is compared to 2016.
Spring 2017 Late summer 2016 Substrate
This section is a lot more straight-forward. In the wild, P. nahuelbutensis grows in wet, acidic, mossy environments. I have had great success with a 1:1 mix of lfs and perlite when used to plant adult/near adult plants. Small plants and seedlings do not root very well in lfs since it has a lot of air pockets, resulting in perpetually small plants. This also applies to P. chuquisacensis ,so I would imagine it would apply to the whole section Ampullipalatum. For this reason, I only recommend using 1:1 mix of perlite/pumice and peat, or a 1:1 mix of perlite/pumice and well-milled or minced lfs.
This Pinguicula is not like Mexican Pinguicula. In its natural environment, it grows wet year-round. When it comes to watering, as long as you are keeping the pot wet, you should be good. You can even keep the water level up to the pot height (though I wouldn't submerge the plants for extended periods of time).
P. nahuelbutensis is one of the few Pinguicula that is self-fertilizing. One does not need to play bee to pollinate its flowers. As far as leaf cuttings/pullings go, I have not heard of anyone attempting them for this species. There is not much of a point to try leaf cuttings/pullings, as the plant produces plenty of seed on its own. P. nahuelbutensis also reproduces asexually via short stolons near the base of the plant. Sometimes, the stolon may reach out a few centimeters. Occasionally, a plant may divide. I have only seen division occur durring flowering, see below: Plant that emerged from a rather long stolon (you can also see it in the last photo): When I sow my P. nahuelbutensis seeds, I place them on the media of choice with the pot sitting in at least a few mm of water. The humidity where the pot is kept is usually around 50% to 60% RH. The fastest P. nahuelbutensis seeds have germinated for me was after 14 days or so had passed. The seeds seem to germinate faster with warmer temps. For quick germination times, I recommend days around 80 and nights in the high 60s.
It should be mentioned that seed germination time seems to vary from person to person. I've had friends whose seeds did not germinate until over 30 days had passed, despite not having very cold days and nights. If you've received seeds of this species, do not give up on it if you've been waiting a long time!