FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

There are now 5 growth points and the plant is starting to get very crowded and bushy.

It doesn't look so young anymore. I just got a SD Kronos which only has 1 growth point, but it has an enormous rhizome, and 16 traps many an inch or larger and still appears mostly dormant. I can't wait to see what it has to offer in the next few months. It has a 5 gallon pot to stretch out in along with the Hawaiian climate so I expect it to grow extremely fast.

stevelau1911 wrote:It doesn't look so young anymore. I just got a SD Kronos which only has 1 growth point, but it has an enormous rhizome, and 16 traps many an inch or larger and still appears mostly dormant. I can't wait to see what it has to offer in the next few months. It has a 5 gallon pot to stretch out in along with the Hawaiian climate so I expect it to grow extremely fast.

Can you please repost your picture? You can directly upload it to this forum.

Jagasian wrote:There are now 5 growth points and the plant is starting to get very crowded and bushy.

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That's a good looking plant. I think feeding it makes a huge difference Also.
Have you considered a control group for your experiment if you truly want a scientific experiment? If the experiment is just with light, feeding it sort of throws it.
But no doubt you have exceptional growth. and it's a great looking plant

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Today with full sunshine, one of it's traps looks burnt, but it already looks like it's reddening and developing resistance to the sun, and if it follows the same pattern as my dcxl, it should get over the shock of stronger light, and start growing again in about 2 weeks once new roots start growing, and the plant can fully handle the sun.



The one that burnt was the one on the top, but I believe that trap may have been too lightly attached to it's corm. I like splitting them up just to see how they grow, and see if they can fill out the pot. The bottom part of my dcxl managed to put out 2 growth points, while the top portion is flowering now. I can get photos this weekend.

Young SD kronos continues to get very “bushy” and crowded with traps growing from several rosettes.

mouthstofeed wrote:what's it hunting for, king kong?

I believe it's hunting for Flyzilla.

As expected it has only been 6 days since planting and all 3 parts of the fly trap have stabilized. There will be the initial shock in the first 2-3 days where the fly trap will start blacking with some parts dying off, but in the last 2days, the remaining parts have rehydrated, still having the reddish color due to the strong sun.

It will likely stay about the same for another week and after 3 weeks of being planted, strikes should start developing on the lower sections while the top point continues growing since there should be functioning roots by then. I made sure all the parts had adequate roots.

The sphagnum is almost no longer visible, and two growth points are putting out traps that are adult-sized. Several other growth points are the putting out small traps.

Overhead view of the young SD Kronos in its original cup pot. It does not look young any more. I am going to transplant it into a much larger pot this weekend to give it more room to grow. I am not going to split the rhizome though.

Now January 26

Jagasian wrote:Overhead view of the young SD Kronos in its original cup pot. It does not look young any more. I am going to transplant it into a much larger pot this weekend to give it more room to grow. I am not going to split the rhizome though.

Now

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January 26

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You can seperate the plants if they are already seperated from the rhizome. It wont hurt it to take the moss back to the rhizome and if the Fly Traps pull apart easily, go for it.

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Every VFT I've ever handled has had the ability to produce strikes from any piece that has the white fleshy rhizome attached. The key appears to be to give them full sun, and keep them moist at all times.

On the SD kronos, all 3 of my leaf pullings made 1 strike, and those are generally slower to get started since they have less energy to work with, the top part made 1 strike which has it's own root system separate from the existing plant so since it's already quite developed I separated it off so the rhizome piece can make a few more strikes.

The oldest part was upheaved by birds so it's still not showing any sign of growth, but the middle part of the rhizome actually had 3 strikes, 1 with traps close to opening while the other 2 were stalling so I separated all of them. All 3 of these pieces happend to have their own roots and old traps with plenty of mass so it was easy to pull them apart to get more plants. My goal is to fill out my 3 gallon pot with lots of plants in 2-3 months.

Jagasian wrote:Overhead view of the young SD Kronos in its original cup pot. It does not look young any more. I am going to transplant it into a much larger pot this weekend to give it more room to grow. I am not going to split the rhizome though.

Now

89E539C3-05D6-4162-B83E-5969ABC68345.jpeg

January 26

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Wow, very nice!
What is your growing environment?

Hard to believe it grew that much in such a short amount of time, but there it is lol

Yeah I want to know what your growing environment is too.

I grow indoors using two 18 inch Sunblaster LED lights 6 inches above the top of the pot, the LED lights are 2 inches separated to spread the light wide. The LEDs are shaped like Sunblaster’s T5HO lights, but are 2.3x as powerful in their light output.
http://www.horticulturesource.com/mobil ... s_id=25267

I use the Sunblaster T5 light stand, and mylar “walls” on both sides to reflect light back as well as on the table top.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJJ5WW6/re ... aBb73TES22

This picture is taken above the set up looking down between the two T5 LED lights.
I use a Hydrofarm light timer. For February through March, I had the lights on for 20 hours per day and then I decreased the time to 16 hours of light per day. The light intensity (PAR) is roughly 450 at the top of the surface of the long fiber sphagnum that the plant is growing in. I measured using a Hydrofarm PAR meter. The picture below is the intensity of the light with only one LED light as opposed to two lights.
I feed one trap per week using rehydrated freeze dried blood worms. The temperature is around 80F.
Here are pictures after I repotted from the Fly Trap Store cup into a Santino self watering pot. I am continuing to use AAA Besgrow New Zealand long fiber sphagnum.
From the side, you can see my sphagnum packing abilities. I purposely tried to recreate the cupcake mound shape used by the Fly Trap Store, when potting in long fiber sphagnum.
This new Santino self watering pot is 1.5 inches taller than the original store cup it came in, and the new pot is 7.1 inches across in diameter.