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By Sundews69
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Posts:  2388
Joined:  Fri Dec 03, 2021 5:57 pm
#414531
Hey everyone,

I'm looking for a good stand/shelf/rack/light cart that I can attach hanging lights to, and keep the majority of my CPs on. Any ideas? I would prefer to spend under $50 on this.
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By NightRaider
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Posts:  418
Joined:  Mon Jun 07, 2021 4:01 am
#414534
I just use wire shelving, but I haven't found one yet that perfectly fits the 1020 trays I like to use. Ebay has (or at least had when I got mine) several listings around $45-50 that fit 4 trays, but you have to clip the tray corners off to fit the poles in the corners. If you have the space though, $70 will get you a 36"x18" rack from Target that fits 12 1020 trays (4 shelves @ 3 trays each, plus a top shelf for storage), or $80 for a 48" rack that fits 16 trays. Only issue I've had with these is being only 18" deep means you have a couple inches of overhang to deal with when using the trays, but obviously that won't matter if you aren't using 1020 trays like I am.
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By DragonsEye
Posts:  1338
Joined:  Sat Oct 01, 2016 1:22 pm
#414543
If you're not in a rush, you could also peruse thrift stores, yard sales, estate sales, and CraigsList. (If you're on FB, that would be another venue to check. I found a rather nice console table to use a stand for my snake's tank. Solid wood and got it for $10. ) It would be very hit or miss, but if you're looking to do this on the thrifty side of things ....
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By Sundews69
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Posts:  2388
Joined:  Fri Dec 03, 2021 5:57 pm
#414546
NightRaider wrote: Sat Jun 18, 2022 5:39 am I just use wire shelving, but I haven't found one yet that perfectly fits the 1020 trays I like to use. Ebay has (or at least had when I got mine) several listings around $45-50 that fit 4 trays, but you have to clip the tray corners off to fit the poles in the corners. If you have the space though, $70 will get you a 36"x18" rack from Target that fits 12 1020 trays (4 shelves @ 3 trays each, plus a top shelf for storage), or $80 for a 48" rack that fits 16 trays. Only issue I've had with these is being only 18" deep means you have a couple inches of overhang to deal with when using the trays, but obviously that won't matter if you aren't using 1020 trays like I am.
What trays would work for the $70 Target option? Thanks for all this advice!
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By NightRaider
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Joined:  Mon Jun 07, 2021 4:01 am
#414548
Don't know of any that would fit perfectly or I'd be using them, but the bit of overhang with standard 1020s hasn't been that big of a deal for me. Worst case, you could use 1010 trays and have a ~7" strip running the length of each shelf for individually-potted stuff like neps or w/e. If you haven't used 1020s before, they're nice because they're specifically made to fit 32x2.5" pots, 18x3.5", etc, and you can get inserts or plug/prop trays of various cell density and depth to fit them for germinating seedlings.
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By DragonsEye
Posts:  1338
Joined:  Sat Oct 01, 2016 1:22 pm
#414549
Sundews69 wrote: Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:36 pm What trays would work for the $70 Target option? Thanks for all this advice!
You might be better off with a more piecemeal approach. I have a 2-tiered lighted plant stand my dad made me years ago that accommodated 4 two-bulb shoplights (two on the top tier, and two on the bottom tier). I have quite a variety of plants on it (pings, dews, utrics, a nep, and a few non-cps ... in some years even a number of orchids)-- especially over the winter. As you're well aware, these plants have very different lighting needs and a huge array of heights. While having one or two large trays would make watering much easier, that would prevent me from accommodating their light needs. So I have found it better to use a variety of small trays ... most of which were containers from ground meat or veggies like mushrooms. The trays can be raised or lowered by sitting them on top of different sized empty pots or other objects.
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By NightRaider
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Joined:  Mon Jun 07, 2021 4:01 am
#414551
DragonsEye wrote: You might be better off with a more piecemeal approach. I have a 2-tiered lighted plant stand my dad made me years ago that accommodated 4 two-bulb shoplights (two on the top tier, and two on the bottom tier). I have quite a variety of plants on it (pings, dews, utrics, a nep, and a few non-cps ... in some years even a number of orchids)-- especially over the winter. As you're well aware, these plants have very different lighting needs and a huge array of heights. While having one or two large trays would make watering much easier, that would prevent me from accommodating their light needs. So I have found it better to use a variety of small trays ... most of which were containers from ground meat or veggies like mushrooms. The trays can be raised or lowered by sitting them on top of different sized empty pots or other objects.
I get what you're saying but I disagree, I haven't had any issues with that at all. Most carnivores have a pretty sizable overlap in ranges of acceptable lighting (besides neps, D. adelae/prolifera/schizandra, etc) and with 4 fully-adjustable shelves you can easily set some to different heights for those plants that need it. For example, on another rack I have one shelf that's set slightly farther away for pings compared to my drosera/utricularia shelves, and if I had any indoor neps I could do the same for them. You can even use tall pots to squeeze a little extra lighting strength on plants that especially need it, which I'm doing with a few vfts until I can make space for them outside. And with the 36" shelf and 2 yescoms like I'm using, you could even slide the light panels over more towards one end to give a gradient along a single shelf.
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By DragonsEye
Posts:  1338
Joined:  Sat Oct 01, 2016 1:22 pm
#414563
NightRaider wrote: Sat Jun 18, 2022 3:11 pmI get what you're saying but I disagree, I haven't had any issues with that at all. Most carnivores have a pretty sizable overlap in ranges of acceptable lighting (besides neps, D. adelae/prolifera/schizandra, etc) and with 4 fully-adjustable shelves you can easily set some to different heights for those plants that need it. For example, on another rack I have one shelf that's set slightly farther away for pings compared to my drosera/utricularia shelves, and if I had any indoor neps I could do the same for them. You can even use tall pots to squeeze a little extra lighting strength on plants that especially need it, which I'm doing with a few vfts until I can make space for them outside. And with the 36" shelf and 2 yescoms like I'm using, you could even slide the light panels over more towards one end to give a gradient along a single shelf.
You're assuming the shelves are adjustable and that the plants in question have a broad range of tolerance. ;) If that is the case, then most definitely that will work --- also assuming that you still have room for multiple light fixtures once having changed the shelf-height. But, since Sundews69 is trying to keep within a budget, I was taking into consideration that the unit he finds (especially should he try the sources I mentioned) might not have adjustable shelves. I will also freely admit that the advice I gave was most certainly influenced by both my lighted plant stand, and the plant stands I use on my balcony and in front of my sliding glass doors -- none of which have an adjustable shelf-height. Also, I am used to growing a very diverse array of plant genera -- not just cps. With that factor added into the mix, you now likely have a better feel for the experience I am drawing upon in formulating the advice I gave. 8-)
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By Sundews69
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Posts:  2388
Joined:  Fri Dec 03, 2021 5:57 pm
#414564
NightRaider wrote: Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:49 pm Don't know of any that would fit perfectly or I'd be using them
Oh, you're right. duh.
NightRaider wrote:Don't know of any that would fit perfectly or I'd be using them, but the bit of overhang with standard 1020s hasn't been that big of a deal for me. Worst case, you could use 1010 trays and have a ~7" strip running the length of each shelf for individually-potted stuff like neps or w/e. If you haven't used 1020s before, they're nice because they're specifically made to fit 32x2.5" pots, 18x3.5", etc, and you can get inserts or plug/prop trays of various cell density and depth to fit them for germinating seedlings.
So, I don't really know what would be best. In regards to the ~7" strip along the side of each shelf for the 1010s, I want to get some more neps, but because they're more picky about humidity, I'm just gonna keep them in a tank. I think the 1020s will probably be better. What are your thoughts?
DragonsEye wrote:
Sundews69 wrote: Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:36 pm What trays would work for the $70 Target option? Thanks for all this advice!
You might be better off with a more piecemeal approach. I have a 2-tiered lighted plant stand my dad made me years ago that accommodated 4 two-bulb shoplights (two on the top tier, and two on the bottom tier). I have quite a variety of plants on it (pings, dews, utrics, a nep, and a few non-cps ... in some years even a number of orchids)-- especially over the winter. As you're well aware, these plants have very different lighting needs and a huge array of heights. While having one or two large trays would make watering much easier, that would prevent me from accommodating their light needs. So I have found it better to use a variety of small trays ... most of which were containers from ground meat or veggies like mushrooms. The trays can be raised or lowered by sitting them on top of different sized empty pots or other objects.
I don't think building something will be the best approach for me. It would definitely save me some money which I love, but I have a feeling that is the type of thing I want to do but never happens.
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By DragonsEye
Posts:  1338
Joined:  Sat Oct 01, 2016 1:22 pm
#414565
Sundews69 wrote: Sat Jun 18, 2022 5:13 pm .. I want to get some more neps, but because they're more picky about humidity, I'm just gonna keep them in a tank.
Don't be too hasty. I don't know what neps you have, but I can tell you my N. maxima 'Mini' and my "poi dog" nep (N. copelandii x ? ) have handled my 15% winter humidity with no issues to speak of. Not saying this would be the case with any nep, I would be very surprised if a lowlander was able to handle such arid conditions, but depending upon what neps you have and get ....
Sundews69 wrote: Sat Jun 18, 2022 5:13 pmI don't think building something will be the best approach for me. It would definitely save me some money which I love, but I have a feeling that is the type of thing I want to do but never happens.
Oh I totally hear that. I live in an apt so there is no way I could build one from scratch. But as I mentioned earlier to Nightraider, if you should decide to utilize the sources I mentioned, you might find a really inexpensive unit that will work well despite not having adjustable shelves, that's all. 8-)
Last edited by DragonsEye on Sat Jun 18, 2022 5:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By NightRaider
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Joined:  Mon Jun 07, 2021 4:01 am
#414566
@DragonsEye Yeah, I was speaking specifically for the rack mentioned in the comment since they're fully configurable in ~1" increments. However if they weren't adjustable then yeah you'd be correct, it'd be harder to get the lighting exactly right.
@Sundews69 Like I said I haven't personally been that bothered by the slight overhang, but I also have my whole rack wrapped which keeps everything secure. I can take a couple pictures later if you want to see it before you drop the money on anything.
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By specialkayme
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Posts:  297
Joined:  Tue Apr 13, 2021 11:02 am
#414586
I don't believe it would be a budget option, but here's what I do. I took a garage 5 shelf adjustable shelving system (much like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Muscle-Rack ... /305553565 or https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source ... 1002864606 although my actual unit was discontinued a few years ago I believe). I divided it into three sections. Hard boards go on the bottom and the top, like normal shelves. The middle three sections just have the exterior parts that make up the shelves, without the support area in the middle.

The top section is closed up with plywood, painted black on the outside and white on the inside. The light is in that area.

The middle and bottom sections have plywood on the back wall and one of the sides, painted white on the inside. The other side has plexiglass. The front has two plexiglass pieces that slide within an aluminum track that was jb welded in place.

In the middle is placed a piece of white metal shelving (https://www.lowes.com/pd/ClosetMaid-8-f ... lf/1090933) cut to size.

A few magnetic hooks are on the inside for individual plants.

This allows:
1) Four 10x10 trays to go on the wire rack closest to the light.
2) Four 10x20 trays to go on the bottom board furthest from the light, or three 10x20 trays and a humidifier.
3) The space can maintain a higher humidity by "closing up" (doesn't fully seal).
4) The most light loving plants can go in the 10x10 trays.
5) The bigger plants, that still enjoy a good amount of light, can go in the brighter part of the 10x20 trays.
6) The plants that prefer a little bit of shade can go in the 10x20 trays, under the wire shelving.
7) Plants that are a little more particular about their lighting can be put on magnetic hooks and moved up and down.
PXL_20220521_213423130.jpg
PXL_20220521_213423130.jpg (2.53 MiB) Viewed 4870 times
Not the best photo, but it'll give you a good idea.
By Sundews69
Location: 
Posts:  2388
Joined:  Fri Dec 03, 2021 5:57 pm
#414620
NightRaider wrote: Sat Jun 18, 2022 5:31 pm I can take a couple pictures later if you want to see it before you drop the money on anything.
Pictures would be very much appriciated!
specialkayme wrote:I don't believe it would be a budget option, but here's what I do. I took a garage 5 shelf adjustable shelving system (much like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Muscle-Rack ... /305553565 or https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source ... 1002864606 although my actual unit was discontinued a few years ago I believe). I divided it into three sections. Hard boards go on the bottom and the top, like normal shelves. The middle three sections just have the exterior parts that make up the shelves, without the support area in the middle.

The top section is closed up with plywood, painted black on the outside and white on the inside. The light is in that area.

The middle and bottom sections have plywood on the back wall and one of the sides, painted white on the inside. The other side has plexiglass. The front has two plexiglass pieces that slide within an aluminum track that was jb welded in place.

In the middle is placed a piece of white metal shelving (https://www.lowes.com/pd/ClosetMaid-8-f ... lf/1090933) cut to size.

A few magnetic hooks are on the inside for individual plants.

This allows:
1) Four 10x10 trays to go on the wire rack closest to the light.
2) Four 10x20 trays to go on the bottom board furthest from the light, or three 10x20 trays and a humidifier.
3) The space can maintain a higher humidity by "closing up" (doesn't fully seal).
4) The most light loving plants can go in the 10x10 trays.
5) The bigger plants, that still enjoy a good amount of light, can go in the brighter part of the 10x20 trays.
6) The plants that prefer a little bit of shade can go in the 10x20 trays, under the wire shelving.
7) Plants that are a little more particular about their lighting can be put on magnetic hooks and moved up and down.
PXL_20220521_213423130.jpg
Not the best photo, but it'll give you a good idea.
Thanks for the suggestion, but that's a little pricey for me. Thanks for including a picture though!
By Sundews69
Location: 
Posts:  2388
Joined:  Fri Dec 03, 2021 5:57 pm
#414626
thepitchergrower wrote: Sun Jun 19, 2022 3:25 am How many plants are you planning to use it for (and how much space do they take up?)
Mainly my dews, pings, utrics, and some VFTs. IDK how many or how much space they'll take up. I'm getting this setup first before I expand my collection to much. I really don't want to run out of space for seedlings.

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