FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

This makes two plants I've lost this year due to rhizome rot, but I have no idea why this is happening the only thing I can think of would be me switching from watering at the bottom (I use the self-watering pots), to top-watering every 3 days. If this is the cause, that means potentially all of my plants are in danger..
First, I lost a smaller division from my s. Rubra, and now a medium-sized division from my Flava var. rugelii

I only noticed something was wrong when I realized it wasn't growing much compared to the main plant, and so today I decided to inspect it more, and this is what I found

I'm sure this is rhizome rot, because the rhizome is mushy and brown. I would normally try and save any possible divisions, no matter the size, but I don't think there is much I can do for this one.

I will post pictures for educational purposes. You can use them in a larger thread if you want, just say it was from me. Thanks, guys.

Sorry to hear Kris. You may have posted this before, but what lighting, airflow, etc was this receiving.

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I'm sorry man, it is really not nice at all to lose plants to rhizome rot. I have lost a purp x moorei and a Lynda Butt.

Which really, really stinks.

JPowell490 wrote:Sorry to hear Kris. You may have posted this before, but what lighting, airflow, etc was this receiving.

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What I posted before was probably about my S. rubra. It was in bad shape, and a small division I pulled didn't survive.

I also posted about this on the ICPS forums, so that may be where you have seen it before.

My growing conditions are the same as the rest of my plants: outside, inside an enclosed frame covered in plastic chicken wire, to keep large pests away. My plants all receive a generous amount of sunlight for a good part of the day. I'll post a picture of my growing conditions.

Somewhere else I read that you use LFSM correct? Here is my theory: those self watering pots are destroying your plants by keeping them too wet. The moss will soak
up a tremendous amount of water, if it has the resource.

I use 100% New Zealand Spagmoss in my Oreophila and VFT'S , but never by the tray method. The tray method is basically what you are using here with these pots.

Get rid of these pots, replant into new pots with numerous holes in the bottom, water from top daily if only half a cup just to keep it fresh and not dry. Then you will have moisture, airflow, light, etc in your setup.

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JPowell490 wrote:Somewhere else I read that you use LFSM correct? Here is my theory: those self watering pots are destroying your plants by keeping them too wet. The moss will soak
up a tremendous amount of water, if it has the resource.

I use 100% New Zealand Spagmoss in my Oreophila and VFT'S , but never by the tray method. The tray method is basically what you are using here with these pots.

Get rid of these pots, replant into new pots with numerous holes in the bottom, water from top daily if only half a cup just to keep it fresh and not dry. Then you will have moisture, airflow, light, etc in your setup.

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Last summer I started using a peat/perlite mix. I only use a thin layer of LFSM on both the top and bottom, to keep the exposed peat from being washed away whenever I water them, or when it rains. The LFSM helps hold everything in place, per say.

Understood. You have to get rid of those pots, they are your problem, they are rotting your plants. Way too much watermm

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I think those pots are viable.

tropperkris,

I see a drainage holes on the sides of those pots. Is that the max level of water? If yes, then those pots are not too much different from this proven method for cultivating sarracenia:
http://www.carnivorousplants.org/howto/ ... iaDeck.php

Alvin, a self watering pot works from gravity feeding water. If the wic thinks the soil is too dry, it feeds more water. In the case of peat moss or LFSM, it soaks up water almost constantly.

It will stay wet 100% of the time if given a supply of water. I also disagree with not having holes in your pots. Sarracenia, in my experiments, still need a high flowing medium and environment. I didn't have a lot of luck with peat/sand so I switched to all NZ spagmoss. However, I still water a small amount daily right from the top, through the plant and let it run straight through the bottom.

Just my experience.

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JPowell490,

Most of my sarracenia are in peat/sand using tray method, and they are doing fine.

I am experimenting with one plant (my Adrian Slack) in 100% LFSM, tray method, sitting in water all the time. But, it is in a net style pot so there's a lot of air.

In hind sight, maybe I should have chosen a cheaper plant to experiment this on, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.

Tray method is how practically everyone grows Sarracenia, and shouldn't be a problem. Maybe try a slightly airier mix, like 40:60 peat perlite.

Alvin 415 wrote:I think those pots are viable.

tropperkris,

I see a drainage holes on the sides of those pots. Is that the max level of water? If yes, then those pots are not too much different from this proven method for cultivating sarracenia:
http://www.carnivorousplants.org/howto/ ... iaDeck.php

Yes, those holes are where you can pour the water in, if you choose. Otherwise, they act as a water tray, and any excess water harmlessly pours over the sides.

I'm telling you, death to all sarracenia in those pots [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND COLD SWEAT]

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