FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

Hi, I would like to be successful with Heliamphora, yet my first(and only) attempt ended in failure. I thought I understood that they require damp put not wet conditions with an open compost containing at least 50 % live sphagnum moss (50-100%) with maybe up-to 50 % perlite. Recently I spotted a photograph of H.Nutans taken at Kew Gardens West London It appears to be planted in shallow water like a bog. Could someone comment on this and wouldn't it possibly result in root rot and death of the plant?http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... ra.arp.jpg. Also would just a substrate of pure moss peat be suitable, or would it get too sodden or at the other extreme dry-out?

I am under the impression that if there is strong light the Heli will be able to grow in flooded conditions.

Since mine started to turn very red under my growlights, I have seperated on of my H. minor divisions and have it's pot sitting in a cup of water. No ill effects so far.

Helis can take quite a bit of water as long as the light is strong. Top watering is better IMO along with adding water to the pitchers.
More wet than damp and it should be ok

Thank you Cory and sundewWolf for your rapid responses. So there's a relationship between the intensity and length of time they receive light and the amount of water they can have. This accords with more rain in the summer and less in the winter. I've read from a book by Adrian Slack of the old Marston Exotics who recommends filling a pot to half-way with perlite then the remainder to the top with ether pure live sphagnum moss or 50/50 moss and perlite, and standing it in some water. I guess that the perlite will get damp and transfer moisture to the moss and plant's roots. Their roots and pitchers are quite brittle and I had to be very careful. Their roots are in the top half of the substrate not quite reaching the perlite layer. Does anyone have any comments on Slacks method would you adapt it in anyway? I'm concerned under-watering as much as over watering and root rot. Slack does not recommend covering the plants for humidity however he recommends misting regularly with deionized water and says where he lived light shading needs to be provided from late spring through sumer.

whitefly wrote:filling a pot to half-way with perlite then the remainder to the top with ether pure live sphagnum moss or 50/50 moss and perlite, and standing it in some water. I guess that the perlite will get damp and transfer moisture to the moss and plant's roots.

This sounds like it could work to me, but then again I have to admit I'm only growing H. minor. I currently repotted mine into a heavy perlite mix to see if they like that soil more. I'm thinking now I can water them more heavily without them rotting since it dries so fast.

All you have to do is get it in a airy mix. Lfs/ perlite 50/50 will work well. So will lfs and fertilizer free orchid bark

I use a mixture or peat perlite lfs and orchid bark.

The main thing is that it drains well so the roots don't have to work so hard to grow IMO.

Plus there's not compaction issues.

It's hard to over water something that's not compacted and an airy mix regardless of your other methods.

Thanks once again to both of you. Now a question of lighting, is it necessary to grow them using artificial lighting (as is suggested by the grow tubes) or would inside on a window sill be sufficient except possibly during November through February? I live in mid England. If you consider them essential then, do you have a favorite supplier would UV tubes for reptiles work as I have some which emit Ultra-Violet B (UVB) rays like sunlight with very little to no heat.

I grow mine under completely supplemented light.
T-5 so very bright. I think it would be awful hard to get enough light in through a window