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this was mine before


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Bonjour

I always rely on their condition 'in situ' then for the mexican I have 3 substrate

- blond peat/river sand 30/70
- pure gypsum/river sand 50/50
- for the majority (including for the majority of my temperate)
cat litter 50% with some time 'akadama'
river sand 12.5%
calcareous sand 12.5%
pouzzolane(volcanic rock)12.5%
vermiculite 12.5%

jeff

I’m not sure where to get this crushed volcanic rock, unless it’s pumice. “Volcanic rock” is quite broad. Even pumice changes according to where it comes from. Or is it the dark stuff -tephra- that they use for top dressing in pots a lot?


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Probably won't advance the conversation, but my laueana x marginata never gets as completely pink as the two shown. Instead, the color in the center of the leaves appears to be similar the the overall color of your faded plant. I guess what I'm saying is the problem may not be the loss of green (ie. chlorophyll) but rather the loss of red pigment. Has your lighting changed in any way? Maybe the bulbs are getting old and the spectrum is shifting?

Could you guys who are actively discussing this give a brief description of your conditions you're keeping your plant's in? I don't know squat about pings, but I would think that may play a small roll. That and I'll be unpacking my first pings tonight, so the extra information would be beneficial to me and very much appreciated.

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boarderlib wrote:Could you guys who are actively discussing this give a brief description of your conditions you're keeping your plant's in? I don't know squat about pings, but I would think that may play a small roll. That and I'll be unpacking my first pings tonight, so the extra information would be beneficial to me and very much appreciated.

Sure, if it helps. Medium: (as described above) 1:1 Turface/coated gravel with around 5-10% aragonite. Light: Full spectrum T8s producing 2900-3200 foot/candles at leaf height. Lights are on daylight plus 1-2 hours. Temps: Winter lows ~61F, Summer highs ~80F, nighttime drop around 10F. Humidity: "household" - maybe 30%-80% by season. Plants are watered by the tray method.

All of my Mexican Pings are in turface/sand except Alfred Lau#13. Lighting is Marshydro 300 about 15” above on an astronomical timer. Temps are 68-72. Humidity 50-80. They are in a glazed ceramic water tray about one inch deep and get watered where the water is level with the top of the media about every 2-3 days.

evenwind wrote:Probably won't advance the conversation, but my laueana x marginata never gets as completely pink as the two shown. Instead, the color in the center of the leaves appears to be similar the the overall color of your faded plant. I guess what I'm saying is the problem may not be the loss of green (ie. chlorophyll) but rather the loss of red pigment. Has your lighting changed in any way? Maybe the bulbs are getting old and the spectrum is shifting?

I did consider that but even after changing the bulbs, there was no difference. Cooler weather does make some difference but not extremely. They were dark pink in the greenhouse where they were originally grown.



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Evenwind, yours looks like mine did at its peak last spring, but the color gradually faded. The little pullings in mineral substrate seem to be coloring better. I’m gone for a month and am looking forward to see how the large ones will when they start growing full summer leaves.


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KategoricalKarnivore wrote:All of my Mexican Pings are in turface/sand except Alfred Lau#13. Lighting is Marshydro 300 about 15” above on an astronomical timer. Temps are 68-72. Humidity 50-80. They are in a glazed ceramic water tray about one inch deep and get watered where the water is level with the top of the media about every 2-3 days.

Water level with the top of the medium? As in almost flooded?

Mine are in 2-4” pots, mostly squat, under T5s. I started with 6500K the first year, but after Ron West said he noticed that high color temps tend to cause smaller leaves, I switched to 2 each of 6500 and 3000K. I have t seen a huge difference though, and suspect it might involve other factors as well. The lights are about 15”
above the plants. My temps range from 60 to 75 in the winter, higher in the summer. Humidity 70-80%. I water by adding about 1/2-3/4” of water to the flats, letting it all be absorbed/evaporated over the next few days, but with the exception of gypsicola and a few others, I don’t let them go bone dry. Seattle water is near neutral btw.


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Bob Beer wrote: Water level with the top of the medium? As in almost flooded?

This is part of an email from Ron West where we were discussing his all-mineral medium: "I usually keep the water level in the tray lower than the surface of the mix, maybe a half inch down. Then I let the tray evaporate, being careful not to let the mix dry out. Then I refill my tray."

FWIW

Wow, that’s really high. I don’t let my mix dry out but that’s extreme.


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Bob Beer wrote: Water level with the top of the medium? As in almost flooded?

Yeah as in almost flooded. It’s only an inch deep so it evaporates pretty quickly. It’s almost totally dry in 3 days time.

Thanks for the info guys! It really is appreciated.

To contribute with my half of a day experience. I'm using the all mineral mix. That's about it.

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Bonjour

see here in french the term pouzzolane https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pouzzolane

we use here in FRANCE often this rock as mulching, in the substrate rather to aerate and moisten them

my mexican condition

- in dormancy ( october to mid may) 10-15°c never below 5°c , quite bright place (at home in front of south facing windows), for the filiform ,dry substrate , for the others dry or slightly wet.
- in growing ( mid may to october) all outdoor in shade or in morning sun ,sheltered from the rain, 20-30°c , Capillarite watering every 15 days, ensuring that the substrate is always moist (not soggy) regardless of the climatic conditions .

jeff