FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

Hello everyone!
As a preface: I live in a tropical country, and this is my first time winterizing my VFTs.

I still have a bit of time before actual winter season in the Northern Hemisphere, so I had been thinking of making a dormancy box for my plants out of an icebox and a thermoelectric cooling device (TEC) to more-or-less synchronize with the actual VFT growing season in the wild.

The main idea is to keep the plants in the icebox, with a light inside that should simulate sunlight, and the TEC to cool down the box. Sensors will be attached as well to monitor the temperature and humidity, and automatically cool down the box when it gets too warm or humid, and shut down when it gets too cold or dry.

What I was wondering about was:

• Is a range of 6-10 degrees C (43-50F) in the box okay?

• How bright is winter sunlight compared to summer?

• Do I really need to keep the humidity in check as well?

Thanks in advance, ladies and gents!

From my experience, 5°C would be ideal, up to 10°C would be fine.
Light isn't a big issue, I put mine in my windowless garage over winter and they're fine. If you do want a light, I'd say half strength, about eight hours a day.
Contrary to popular belief, Flytraps don't need high humidity. As long as the media stays moist, the humidity inside the box should be sufficient. However, in an enclosed environment like that, he more vigilant for mold and fungus.

dennisseda wrote: ↑Sat Nov 13, 2021 3:27 am I still have a bit of time before actual winter season in the Northern Hemisphere, so I had been thinking of making a dormancy box for my plants out of an icebox and a thermoelectric cooling device (TEC) to more-or-less synchronize with the actual VFT growing season in the wild.

If you want to see what the temperatures are like in the Venus flytrap's native range, here is the weather forecast for Wilmington, North Carolina, USA. Click on the "C°" link next to the current temperature to change to Celsius.

dennisseda wrote: Is a range of 6-10 degrees C (43-50F) in the box okay?

That range is fine. I tell people to aim for 2-13°C (35-55°F).

dennisseda wrote: How bright is winter sunlight compared to summer?

It drops to about 40% (see table 1 here for the actual numbers).

dennisseda wrote: Do I really need to keep the humidity in check as well?

In a closed box, you will have to keep an eye on the humidity. If you have some way get fresh air circulation, that would be a very good idea.

Thanks for the replies, and special thanks to MikeB for the links! Very helpful indeed

dennisseda wrote: ↑Sat Nov 13, 2021 3:27 am Hello everyone!
As a preface: I live in a tropical country, and this is my first time winterizing my VFTs.

I still have a bit of time before actual winter season in the Northern Hemisphere, so I had been thinking of making a dormancy box for my plants out of an icebox and a thermoelectric cooling device (TEC) to more-or-less synchronize with the actual VFT growing season in the wild.

The main idea is to keep the plants in the icebox, with a light inside that should simulate sunlight, and the TEC to cool down the box. Sensors will be attached as well to monitor the temperature and humidity, and automatically cool down the box when it gets too warm or humid, and shut down when it gets too cold or dry.

What I was wondering about was:

• Is a range of 6-10 degrees C (43-50F) in the box okay?

• How bright is winter sunlight compared to summer?

• Do I really need to keep the humidity in check as well?

Thanks in advance, ladies and gents!

For VFTs, in mid – October (zone 6) once the plants are well into the start of dormancy I drain off excess water from the pots, hit them with a SULFUR based fungicide and place in zip lock bags and pop them in the fridge for 3 - 3 1/2 months. I occasionally check them (once a month) for fungus and hit with the fungicide if needed. Late winter around February 1st I take them out and clean them up, repot any that need it, hit them with SULFUR based fungicide again and place in a south and west window and some under florescent and white 'daylight' LED lights until night time temps. regularly stay above freezing then slowly acclimate them to full outdoor Sun. I've been using this method for 14 years with no losses.