FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

tommyr wrote:There is a guy on Youtube who recommends this stuff. His name is Liguus. Here's his video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7kVFBAtbIo

Yeah, but if Jagasian never brought it up here I would have never made a video on it.

Nice to see that this caught on. All I did was read published scientific journals on azoxystrobin where extensive experiments have been run with other plant species. I then just tried it with venus fly traps. This is how science works, take an experiment and make a small change and measure the effects.

I shared a timelapse where 6 seconds into the video I watered with azoxystrobin. The plant changes from yellow green to green-green and growth speeds up.
https://mobile.twitter.com/lukeevanssim ... 48512?s=21

Flytraps, like all plants, create photosynthetic structures to capture light and use it to create sugar. This process involves capturing light radiation, which is very stressful at the molecular level as it causes molecules in the plant to vibrate, heat up, and shake apart like an old overworked car engine. Azoxystrobin helps the plant slow down that natural damage like good fresh synthetic oil does for an old car engine. This means the plant spends less of its resources repairing damage.

When parts of a plant, flytraps especially, become too damaged due, the plant recycles the structure. Flytraps do this very visually. They literally transport all recyclables out of a trap and its stalk, leaving only a black husk behind. This, by the way, is why it is important to not prune traps too early. Let the plant recycle everything in it before pruning.

Azoxystrobin’s steroid effects are most pronounced when the plant is getting 16 hours of high PAR light every day. In the videos I shared, you can see that my plants have deep red traps and the green parts of the plant are yellow green as opposed to green-green. This is because in the video I was pushing the plant very hard by using artificial indoor LED grow lights that output high PAR and I had the photoperiod tuned to 16 hours every day. Flytraps grow much faster under this intense light, but they age faster too.

It would be great if others shared their experiments here too.

I have tried this too.

Plants are happy.

But I’m getting more green on the traps.
In fact, the red traps turn back to green sometimes.

I took it a step further lol. Thanks to this article and the youtube video I tried it on my flytraps. After a few weeks it was definitely noticeable. I went on to research people experimenting with other CPs and they showed success. I went ahead and did it with my Drosera Regia (since they're not really traditional sundews) and I'm honestly surprised. I have two of them that I believe are identical clones and I was surprised at the difference between the two. The growth point went vibrant green and the leaves coming out are coming out quicker and honestly the plant caught up in size and then passed it up lol (i got it a few weeks later from the same supplier).

What I noticed about my Regias are they maintain full dew on about 6 leaves (Age could be a factor, idk) and then the rest begin to degrade over time. I have noticed that the leaves have not died off as fast, unfortunately the dew production appears to be the same. Still, it does give a fuller looking plant and that in itself is nice. These things could change over time. My indoor drosera never really see a dormancy, so I'm wondering if this can be applied monthly.

It is a sketchy idea to experiment with because people are very conservative about CPs (and for good reason). I'm a little more reckless and this idea sounded great to me. I'm definitely a believer.

I intend to use this stuff on some pinguicula pullings of mine to see if there are any changes that occur. They're due for a transplant and I'll separate a control group.

This stuff is magic.

This year I experimented using Scott's Disease EX fungicide on 4 plants. Used 1/4 strength and watered thoroughly once a month for 3 months as per Liguus on Youtube . It was supposed to act like steroids and increase growth, sturdy-ness and color according to some people but after 4 months I've seen NO difference in their growth what so ever. The plants get 7+ hours of direct Sun a day and rainwater only. It didn't hurt anything but didn't do anything either.

Thanks for reporting your results, tommyr. I had planned to do a similar experiment this year too but failed to get going on it. I have heard a few others report that they noticed no difference either so there must be other variables at play here like the growing conditions, type of soil, type of water, how wet the plants are kept, nutrients in the soil, or perhaps many other things or a combination of things that affect the results. It would be interesting to find out in why Scott's Disease EX fungicide does seem to help people's plants in some cases!

Matt wrote: ↑Wed Aug 12, 2020 2:39 pm Thanks for reporting your results, tommyr. I had planned to do a similar experiment this year too but failed to get going on it. I have heard a few others report that they noticed no difference either so there must be other variables at play here like the growing conditions, type of soil, type of water, how wet the plants are kept, nutrients in the soil, or perhaps many other things or a combination of things that affect the results. It would be interesting to find out in why Scott's Disease EX fungicide does seem to help people's plants in some cases!

You're welcome. Just to add to the data, my soil is the standard 50:50 peat moss/perlite mix. Plants are bottom watered in trays putting abut 1/4" of rain water in and letting it go dry between re-filling the next day. A 1/4 chunk of "Mosquito dunk" is floated in the rain collecting buckets. TDS of our rainwater is typically 0-2ppm. With 1/4 or less of a Mosquito dunk added mid to upper teens. Summer temps have been in the 90's a lot this year so far. Low to mid 90's.

I don't know. I heard or read somewhere that it is activated by watering. Was the entire tray's solution measured with the fungicide? I water from the top and do not have a mosquito dunk. My soil for vast majority is LFSM, though I have an alien in a 45/45/10 peat/silica/perlite that also seemed to have responded. My temperatures and sunlight have been roughly the same as yours, although the nighttime temps and humidity are probably higher. I didn't do the math for my measurement, I just did the 1 tbsp. per gallon that was recommended in the video.

The watering thing reminds me of my second Regia. After I saw the large difference in the first one, I decided to try it with the second in a larger pot but I didn't handle it the same way. I watered in it for a time but left it in a tray of water. From time to time I'd sprinkle some water through the top but it didn't really change anything. The first time I took it out of the tray (it was smaller and more accessible) and let it sit outside of the tray for a while before placing it back in. Then I watered from the top until it filled its tray to the level I kept it. My Regias are grown indoors in a 40/50/10 peat/silica/perlite mix with temps of 75 day/69 night. with relative (~60) humidity.

Apollyon wrote: ↑Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:27 pm I don't know. I heard or read somewhere that it is activated by watering. Was the entire tray's solution measured with the fungicide? I water from the top and do not have a mosquito dunk. My soil for vast majority is LFSM, though I have an alien in a 45/45/10 peat/silica/perlite that also seemed to have responded. My temperatures and sunlight have been roughly the same as yours, although the nighttime temps and humidity are probably higher. I didn't do the math for my measurement, I just did the 1 tbsp. per gallon that was recommended in the video.

The watering thing reminds me of my second Regia. After I saw the large difference in the first one, I decided to try it with the second in a larger pot but I didn't handle it the same way. I watered in it for a time but left it in a tray of water. From time to time I'd sprinkle some water through the top but it didn't really change anything. The first time I took it out of the tray (it was smaller and more accessible) and let it sit outside of the tray for a while before placing it back in. Then I watered from the top until it filled its tray to the level I kept it. My Regias are grown indoors in a 40/50/10 peat/silica/perlite mix with temps of 75 day/69 night. with relative (~60) humidity.

Are you talking about the Scott's Disease EX? I top watered the 4 experiment plants with Scott's Disease EX as Liguus on Youtube did. As of today there is still no noticeable difference in the plants.

tommyr wrote: Are you talking about the Scott's Disease EX? I top watered the 4 experiment plants with Scott's Disease EX as Liguus on Youtube did. As of today there is still no noticeable difference in the plants.

Yeah. I was trying to figure out what I did differently or if conditions did indeed have an effect. I was comparing my own experience to yours. My question about the watering was if you watered it in and set it in the tray, perhaps the tray's water diluted the mixture but I really don't know. Mine was spotty, one drosera looked noticeably different from the other but I handled it differently. The second one I attempted, it wasn't nearly as practical to lift it out so I watered it while it was in the tray. The VFTs just had a different sheen to them than they did before. As far as noticeable growth, I had a salvaged purple ambush that seemed to respond well from it. It was essentially a cutting by the end and it has shown some great growth over the last month or so. Worst case it was a preventative treatment you know?

Apollyon wrote: ↑Sun Aug 16, 2020 4:59 pm

tommyr wrote: Are you talking about the Scott's Disease EX? I top watered the 4 experiment plants with Scott's Disease EX as Liguus on Youtube did. As of today there is still no noticeable difference in the plants.

Yeah. I was trying to figure out what I did differently or if conditions did indeed have an effect. I was comparing my own experience to yours. My question about the watering was if you watered it in and set it in the tray, perhaps the tray's water diluted the mixture but I really don't know. Mine was spotty, one drosera looked noticeably different from the other but I handled it differently. The second one I attempted, it wasn't nearly as practical to lift it out so I watered it while it was in the tray. The VFTs just had a different sheen to them than they did before. As far as noticeable growth, I had a salvaged purple ambush that seemed to respond well from it. It was essentially a cutting by the end and it has shown some great growth over the last month or so. Worst case it was a preventative treatment you know?

Oh I see. No, in the tray where the 4 experiment plants are I keep NO water in the tray. I top water them. I did bottom water once or twice near the END of the month a few days prior to the next treatment. I do not think delusion was the issue.

Now Liguus' plants were looking bad due to growing them indoors (he admitted that) so MAYBE the stuff helped them recover. I don't know. As far as a preventive, I don't like to use stuff unless it's really needed. As long as the flytraps are grown outdoors and have good airflow fungus shouldn't be a problem.

The only time I use a fungicide is when I take them out of the fridge in February. They will usually have a small amount of gray fungus that is easily dealt with with sulphur fungicide.

Tom

Yes, the experiment was not entirely fair since I was doing it in late spring, and the oncoming summer would have "boosted" the growth regardless of the Azoxystrobin. What about the fact that they skipped dormancy for years? Was placing them outdoors good enough to recover them in one season? Or did the azoxy help that process? I've only had one batch of these VFTs that skipped dormancy so I've only ever been in this scenario one time with plants that received the azoxy...no control group. One person mentioned that I should do an experiment with two typicals, one watered with regular distilled water, and one with azoxy and report back after 2-3 years, which I am currently doing... although very sloppily. I have many things going on currently and plants on top of plants, and don't have much free time to "screw around" and be as meticulous as I once could be.

To be honest, you will probably get more of a boost feeding your VFTs with shrimp pellets and MaxSea fertilizer, although I barely even do that...Just sticking them outdoors in full sun and leaving them alone is fine for me, all this other stuff is just screwing around for fun and curiosity and taking people's word on benefits.

SundewWolf wrote: ↑Mon Aug 31, 2020 6:23 pm To be honest, you will probably get more of a boost feeding your VFTs with shrimp pellets and MaxSea fertilizer, although I barely even do that...Just sticking them outdoors in full sun and leaving them alone is fine for me, all this other stuff is just screwing around for fun and curiosity and taking people's word on benefits.

I totally agree with you. Sorry for the delay, I just got home from the hospital Sunday after having emergency collapsed lung surgery.

tommyr wrote:I just got home from the hospital Sunday after having emergency collapsed lung surgery.

Not to hijack the thread, but....SAY WHAT?!! What happened? Glad you are OK enough to be back on the forums and posting again after surgery.

Matt wrote: ↑Thu Sep 03, 2020 12:31 am

tommyr wrote:I just got home from the hospital Sunday after having emergency collapsed lung surgery.

Not to hijack the thread, but....SAY WHAT?!! What happened? Glad you are OK enough to be back on the forums and posting again after surgery.

Thanks a lot Matt. I have emphysema and had an air leak from one or 2 bronchial sacks which hurts like a mofo. Lung partially collapsed. You do NOT want to go through what I did last week. I won't go into the gory/painful details, google collapsed lung if interested in learning more. Still sore but glad to be back home. My niece watered my VFTs while I was gone. She's the best.