FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

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By GrubbyBoat61606
Posts:  8
Joined:  Thu Dec 01, 2022 1:29 am
#424959
I’m new to this so I’m just going to say what I have been looking for below
-Citrus x aurantium "Bitter Orange" - 2 pkg
-Mixed Threadleaf (filiformis) - bulk
-Mixed Rosettes - 12 pkg + bulk
-D. filiformis filiformis "Temperate" - 6 pkg + bulk
-D. capensis "Large form" - bulk
Thx
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By ChefDean
Location: 
Posts:  7350
Joined:  Tue Sep 18, 2018 12:44 am
#424962
The Rosettes are a bonus, so we'll put them aside for now.
Of the others you're eyeballing, normally you'd be allowed to request one, but November is special and you can request two.
Also, of those remaining four, the Bitter Orange seeds are too big for a normal SASE, so you'd have to send a padded envelope or we can discuss other shipping methods that will cost more.
Having said all that, assuming the Rosettes will be the bonus, which two would you like to request?
By GrubbyBoat61606
Posts:  8
Joined:  Thu Dec 01, 2022 1:29 am
#424963
To be honest with you, I am not the best at deciding these things, so just choose the two that differ from the rossette and from each other so I can have a variety. Do you happen to have a place to message separately so I can give address.
By GrubbyBoat61606
Posts:  8
Joined:  Thu Dec 01, 2022 1:29 am
#424964
Also if you happen to have any sources for such seeds to help me plant the seeds because i have no clue on what I need supply wise so any sort of info is appreciated
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By Intheswamp
Location: 
Posts:  1473
Joined:  Wed May 04, 2022 2:28 pm
#424967
Hey Grubby, where are you located at? That helps folks figure out some things for you.

You need a growing mix that contains no fertilizer and no minerals. A standard, good mix is a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite. A tip: Stay away from Miracle-Gro products as they all contain fertilizers. Both perlite and peat moss can be found at garden centers or in the garden centers at places like Lowes or Home Depot or other home improvement/garden stores. It can also be purchased online at these places and on Amazon. A pre-packaged "Carnivorous Plant Mix" can be purchased at Amazon, here at the FlyTrapStore, and other places. The most cost efficient is to buy peat moss and perlite and mix your own.

You will also need water that has low "Total Dissolved Solids" or "TDS". Basically rainwater, distilled water, RO water (reverse osmosis), and sometimes water from a dehumidifier are all useable. A TDS meter is used to measure the water. It is a simple gadget that usually runs about $15 on Amazon. You want the TDS reading of your water to be below 50ppm. Without measuring it...most people's faucet water usually has too high a TDS (sometimes really high)...distilled water is usually always the safest...reverse osmosis water should be good...dehumidifier water is usually "ok"...and lastly, rainwater is *usually* always good. Rainwater TDS can vary some, depending on your location. Living in a large industrial city might lead to higher TDS readings where as a rural/country location will usually have "cleaner"/lower TDS readings. Most people collect off of roofs...and the roof material can affect the TDS. A TDS meter is a handy tool to have on hand.

So...you've got your growing medium and your water. The other part is light. Are you growing inside? On a window sill? Outside. Most all carnivorous plants do well with lots of sun. There's a few plants that actually do better in somewhat of a more shady setting. But, for sundews and especially flytraps the more sunlight they can get the better they will grow. Again, your location comes into play here...warm?...cold?....sunny?....cloudy?....dry?....wet?

Now, the next thing is getting your seeds. You need to send a SASE envelope to ChefDean. This involves addressing an envelope to yourself and putting a stamp on it. Fold it well and insert it into another stamped envelope that has ChefDean's address on it and mail it. SASE="Self Addressed Stamped Envelope". He'll send you his address along with a couple of other instructions. When here receives your letter with the SASE inside of it he'll put your seeds inside it and mail it back to you. Easy peasy. ;)

And, btw, welcome to the forum!!!
By GrubbyBoat61606
Posts:  8
Joined:  Thu Dec 01, 2022 1:29 am
#424968
Just to simplify the response, can filtered water from a fridge work? I have grow lights at two heights on a shelf(6-8 inches and 1-2 feet) and some red/blue lights in a downstairs area at various heights, the dirt sounds good. can I use any pot or is a ceramic or plastic better? How long can the seeds last? When do you need the envelope cause it may be a week or two? Im in west Kentucky. And thanks for the patience.
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By Intheswamp
Location: 
Posts:  1473
Joined:  Wed May 04, 2022 2:28 pm
#424972
My simple answer to the filtered fridge water is NO.

Plastic pots are the best. Ceramic are next in line....be sure they're sealed well. Stay away from terra cotta, cement, clay, etc.,.

The seeds can last for years. Seal them well in plastic or mylar bags and store in the refrigerator. I keep mine in there. I'm pretty much a newbie, myself. What I usually do is plant 3/4 of my seed bank seeds and stick back maybe a fourth of them in the refrigerator. Be aware that sundew seeds are *VERY SMALL*...I mean, "VERY VERY SMALL". Some look like dust. I got a package in one time that I swore they forgot to put the seeds in the envelope...then I decided to get a magnifying glass and look to be sure...and, they were there!!!! :shock: The seeds will come to you in a folded up little envelope. I usually take a white sheet of printer paper and turn the edges up an inch or so on all sides to catch any bouncing/rolling seeds. I also use a smaller, probably 4" square sheet of paper with two opposite edges folded up 1/2" or so. I lay the small sheet of paper in the "tray" of the larger sheet of paper and open the seed envelope over it...in case some spill. I then take the envelope (do go slow opening it to be sure you don't spill the seeds) and slowly tap seeds onto the smaller sheet of paper. I use the small sheet of paper to slowly move over the surface of the pot as I slowly tap it...hoping to scatter the seeds out over the entire surface...sometimes it works and they're scattered...sometimes there may be a clump or two.

Have your peat moss and perlite mix good and moist. Put a fine top layer of peat, say 1/2" layer of 100% peat scattered over the top of the peat/perlite mix. This helps the seeds to make good contact with the moist peat moss. You *don't* want to cover the seeds...they're tiny and if they fall into a hole you may never see them again nor a seedling sprout...simply sprinkle them with the sheet of paper over the surface. If you have a pump spray bottle gently mist the top of the pot once the seeds are scattered. I usually cover my planted pots with clear plastic...saran wrap works, I use about anything I can find. These plants take 100% humidity for a while but I do like to give them a tiny bit of ventilation...a crack/slit here or there in the plastic covering. As soon as they germinate they need very good light.

Kentucky...you shouldn't have trouble locating the growing mix ingredients.

If you let ChefDean know that it might be a couple of weeks I'm sure he'll work with you on it. Just tell him you want to send him a kitten and he'll be so excited he'll probably hand deliver the seeds to you so he can pick the kitten up from you...he'll be forever grateful!!!!! :mrgreen:

Have fun with the new hobby...it can get addicting. ;)
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By Intheswamp
Location: 
Posts:  1473
Joined:  Wed May 04, 2022 2:28 pm
#424973
Something else I forgot to mention. Some seeds need "cold stratification". Capensis usually don't need it. Filiformis can need it. Rosettes....probably need it. Stratification is usually storing the seeds in moist/wet and cold conditions...to simulate being outdoors in the winter. This gets them in the mood for germination. Some people plant there pots and leave them outside (better if they don't freeze) over winter. Some people put the pots in the fridge. You can also water stratify the seeds. Simply put the seeds in a small container of distilled water and put them in the refrigerator. After 4-8 weeks take the seeds out and carefully scatter them on the surface of a prepared pot. Lots of talk on the forum about stratification...use the search feature for more details. ;)
By GrubbyBoat61606
Posts:  8
Joined:  Thu Dec 01, 2022 1:29 am
#424974
Ok thanks, I’ll probably be spending most of my time preparing my materials. I am hoping to keep at least one inside full year since I know some like to be outside in full sun year round.
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By ChefDean
Location: 
Posts:  7350
Joined:  Tue Sep 18, 2018 12:44 am
#424982
As to your questions, Intheswamp has provided you with some great info.
Soil-50:50 mix of peat:perlite. Make sure they do not have fertilizers added. You can find these at Lowes or Home Depot. You may have to buy the peat in a big bale, but there are other uses for it. Rehydrate it and rinse it well.
Water-Get a TDS meter (~$10 on Amazon) to measure your water. Less than 50 ppm preferred for many carnivorous plants, up to 100 is OK as long as you flush the pots regularly to prevent mineral build up. Western Kentucky water might be OK (I'm in Middle Tennessee myself), but you'll need to test it to be sure. I usually water my plants straight from the hose during the summer here, and my water measures 100-110 ppm. If yours is higher than that, I'd suggest collecting rain water or buying distilled water from the grocery store. These plants need to stay moist, so, if necessary, any water is better than no water.
Pots and trays-Plastic is most suggested because they are inexpensive and non-reactive to the acidic environment. Styrofoam, glass, and fully glazed ceramic are also good choices. Stay away from unglazed pottery like terra cotta as minerals will leach out into the media and water and an potentially harm or kill the plant. Bare metal pots or water trays are also not recommended.
All that being said, I'll set you up with the capensis, filiformis, and bonus rosettes. The Capes and rosettes can be sown immediately and kept warm (~72-ish°F) on a sunny windowsill, but the filiformis will need cold stratification. My way; Get a small container, add distilled water, pour in seeds, mix well, seal, put in fridge for eight weeks. After eight weeks, pour out onto media, piut outside (as long as it's staying above freezing), and wait for the magic.
SASE-Your request has a two week life. If you don't send a SASE, or post that you've sent it, within two weeks of making your request, your request could be canceled. However, if you communicate with me that it will be late, I've been know to wait a but longer, within reason. A standard #10 envelope is preferred, but any envelope will suffice as long as it's big enough to hold the seeds and their high-tech frame.
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By ChefDean
Location: 
Posts:  7350
Joined:  Tue Sep 18, 2018 12:44 am
#424983
Order received.
Your order number is 1195
I'll PM you shortly with a mailing address for your SASE.
Thank you for your order.

Reminder to all:
Please remember to write your Forum username and order number somewhere on the envelope or in a note.
I don't have access to a cross reference of real-world names linked to usernames.
Remembering these things helps me fill orders quicker.
Thank you.

Happy growing,
Chef
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By Intheswamp
Location: 
Posts:  1473
Joined:  Wed May 04, 2022 2:28 pm
#425081
ChefDean wrote: Thu Dec 01, 2022 11:10 am ... A standard #10 envelope is preferred, but any envelope will suffice as long as it's big enough to hold the seeds and their high-tech frame.
Is that titanium you're making those frames from, Chef?
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By ChefDean
Location: 
Posts:  7350
Joined:  Tue Sep 18, 2018 12:44 am
#425084
No, titanium is still too heavy. I'm looking at that aerogel stuff. It has almost zero weight, and has some cushiony give to absorb the pressure of the USPS torture devices.
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