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Ask questions about how to grow and care for Venus Flytraps

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By Yates_123
Posts:  5
Joined:  Wed May 10, 2017 2:59 pm
#292304
Hi everyone,

I had bought a VFT about a month ago and kept it in its original container. It was doing great with new growth all over and even flower stalks on two of the plants (it started to divide). I decided it was time to repot the VFT and followed direction I found on this site. However where I am from I have a really hard time finding soil ingredients that aren't miracle grow and have extra nutrients and fertilizers in them. For some odd reason I could not find peat moss anywhere unless it was miracle grow, I searched everywhere for sand with nothing in it but couldn't find any and I have had issues finding perlite as well. I read on a site that using sphagnum moss would be okay if you just cut it up into small pieces. I did this and repotted the VFT. It has been a couple of days now and all of the leaves on the VFT are turning brown and the plants appear to be dying. I have no idea what to do as the VFT is in the same location it was in and I use distilled water. I really don't want this plant to die but I have limited access to soil ingredients for this plant.

Please help!

Thank you
By KategoricalKarnivore
Posts:  1755
Joined:  Wed Aug 24, 2016 5:00 pm
#292305
A picture would help figure out the problem. It could just be stress from repotting. Did you rinse out the sphagnum moss well before potting? It can have minerals etc that can hurt the plant.
By Yates_123
Posts:  5
Joined:  Wed May 10, 2017 2:59 pm
#292309
Another thing that is very concerning is that a lot of the traps have also turned black and are now gone.

Hopefully the photo is working now.

Thank you all!
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Last edited by Yates_123 on Thu May 11, 2017 1:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
By KategoricalKarnivore
Posts:  1755
Joined:  Wed Aug 24, 2016 5:00 pm
#292316
Your picture didn't work. Sphagnum is a great media for flytraps. It's normal for old leaves to die off and turn black. As long as the new leaves coming from the center are nice and green then the plant should be fine. Did you slowly acclimate it to sunlight or just put it straight outside?
By Fishkeeper
Posts:  732
Joined:  Sat Dec 03, 2016 10:59 pm
#292405
They definitely need much more light. The long leaves and tiny traps mean they're light-starved Also, flower stalks aren't necessarily a good sign- sometimes stressed plants will flower in an attempt to produce seeds.

Long-fiber sphagnum moss can be used as-is, there's no need to chop it up.
By Yates_123
Posts:  5
Joined:  Wed May 10, 2017 2:59 pm
#292454
Do you think the browning of leaves is from lack of light as well? I thought it was getting enough light in the window it was in, I had it in a window that got the most light possible in our house. I think I am going to try to slowly transition it outside but do you think that will be too much shock on it?

Thank you
By outisnemo
Posts:  1
Joined:  Thu Aug 11, 2022 8:41 am
#418083
@thepitchergrower:

Why not? It's recommended by a lot of people who are experienced in growing them, and seems to more closely emulate their natural growing conditions; I've been standing them outside in full sunlight and filling their tray with 0.5-1 inch of water, seems to work well.
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By ChefDean
Location: 
Posts:  6685
Joined:  Tue Sep 18, 2018 12:44 am
#418084
thepitchergrower wrote: Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:54 pm Not exactly true. You really shouldn't stand them in water. As for the above plant, it appears to be a goner... :?
Not exactly true either. I keep most of mine in a tray, about one inch deep, and fill the tray every other day. The key is to not let the roots stand in water constantly.


@Lotsofplants; There's green, there's life. It appears to me to need water more than anything at this point, it's wilty. If you just repotted a week ago, the media hasn't had time to settle around the roots, so your plant cannot effectively take up water. There's a couple things you can do.
First of all, sphagnum moss is great for VFT's, don't worry about that.
Keep it wet, wetter than normal for a VFT, for the next couple of weeks. This will keep water available.
You can try to manipulate the media to have better contact with the roots by using a toothpick to push the media closer to the roots. You may have to add more to the sudes once you're done, but that's easy.
I'm not a big fan of this, but bag it for the next week or two to increase humidity and decrease transpiration.
Last, once it starts to grow new leaves, put it outside in an area that gets direct AM sunlight. They do not get enough sunlight on a windowsill, and many lights don't put out enough light for a VFT. The existing leaves may burn, but the leaves emerging into the sunlight will be acclimated, and the plant will do better overall.
steve booth liked this
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By Intheswamp
Location: 
Posts:  736
Joined:  Wed May 04, 2022 2:28 pm
#418093
steve booth wrote: Wed Mar 30, 2022 9:37 am @Yates - Difficult to tell from the photo, are you sure that the moss is Sphagnum, looks like it could be carpet moss. Where did you get it?
Cheers
Steve
Uh, @Yates post is five years old... @Lotsofplants tagged onto an older post. ;) And, I was wondering the same thing about the moss...package label images sure help in times like these.
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By Intheswamp
Location: 
Posts:  736
Joined:  Wed May 04, 2022 2:28 pm
#418096
It seems that it would depend on climate/weather and time of year in regards to flytraps standing in water. I'm not sure who it was, probably a few people, but my mindset has been formed that flytraps like their feet wet but don't want the water up to their knees. In HOT weather I keep roughly 3/4"-1" of water in my trays due to fast evaporation...but I will let it dry down before adding more, occasionally top-watering...this is during HOT weather. During milder weather I simply top water every couple of days if the pot gets "light in weight". I haven't gone through a winter yet, but my plans are to use minimal water during dormancy during that period.

Looking closely at your image it looks to me as though the moss is hydrated and I *think* I see water droplets on a leaf and on the rim of the pot. The wrinkled surface of the leaves tend to make me think that at one time the plant was severely dehydrated. Follow Chef's suggestions, he's been doing it a while. As for bagging the plant, an easy way I've found to do this is get a zip-lock bag that is large enough to fit around the pot and slit the bottom seam open and slide the pot down into it...the open/cut bag bottom allows the pot to take water from the tray and at the zip-lock at the top makes a great way of adjusting the ventilation for more or less humidity and fresh air. But really, any bag will do as long as you can adjust the opening a bit. The pot in this photo (5") has the bag pulled down close to the surface being as I've got some sundew seeds planted inside it. The bag can be pulled up higher to accommodate the height of growing plants if needed. I use cheap gallon-size dollar store ziplocks...they seem to fit 5"square and 6"round pots pretty well.
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