FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

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Discussions on how to propagate your plants sexually and asexually, by seed, natural division or leaf pulling

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By Panman
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Joined:  Wed Mar 04, 2020 8:41 pm
#413287
NightRaider wrote: Sat Jun 04, 2022 3:41 pm Weird. I'm absolutely 100% positive I've read that they need strat before and never once heard they didn't until now and every other carnivore they grow alongside in the wild needs strat, but you're right, it appears that's the case. My bad, I have no idea why I thought that then. Carry on lol. I'll add though I've had luck with sterilization by just boiling a pot of water and pouring it over the peat. You'll just want to do it outside since it doesn't smell great.
Another one of those definite maybes surrounding Venus Flytraps. I think the current concensus is that fresh seeds do not need stratification but that it is helpful with older seeds. As far as the plants they from alongside of, those that flower in spring, filiformis and capillaris for example, don't need to be stratified. Those that set seed in fall, like flava and intermedia, due. Since flytraps set seet in early summer, it is likely that they do not "need" stratification, but it helps.
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By Intheswamp
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#414570
Update and a question...

I noted yesterday that a few seeds had germinated. There are 25 seeds planted in each pot and it appears that 5-6 seeds have germinated in each pot, so right now about a 20% germination rate. Yesterday was 13 days since planting.

The pots have been in gallon ziplock bags with the zippers closed to about a 33% opening. I've kept a small amount of water in the bottom of the bags that the pots are inside of and I've misted the surface a few times. This is in an outside, uncooled garage where daytime temperatures have been hovering around 90F degrees. They've been sitting to the side of a large window where no direct sunlight would hit them.

Upon seeing the small specks of green I pulled the ziplocks down, exposing the growing mix surface and seedlings to the open air and moved the pots outside to a semi-shaded area where mottled light appears for a few hours each day and possibly an hour of direct light. I'm keeping the surface misted a couple of times a day. There is a sheet of plexiglass about an inch above the top of the pots to prevent rain or birds from disturbing the seeds and seedlings.

Now....the question. :)

I'm not keeping these beneath grow lights so I'm depending on sunlight...direct and otherwise. Since apparently not all the seeds have germinated should I pull the bags back up and zippered to a small opening to hold humidity in and keep the pots in open shade? Or, if I'm keeping the surface moist, is it better to keep them beneath the elevated piece of plexiglass? Keep in mind, that I'm hoping for more seeds to pop. :?:

An added note: Outside temperatures are now ranging in the mid to upper 90F's and by the middle of this coming week we will have at least three days of 100+ degrees. If kept moist and in open-shade should these seedlings be ok?

Thanks!
Ed
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By thepitchergrower
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#414571
As long as the humidity is high enough, the seeds should continue to germinate. Personally, I would leave them in the bag, but open part of the zip...
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By Intheswamp
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#414655
I was leaning towards the bags being more closed, myself. Carnivorous plants are a "wee bit" different from starting vegetable seedlings...with vegetables as soon as I see the first green appearing through the soil I remove their plastic covering to stop any damping off...the rest of the seedlings will follow in short order. I'zipped the bags up to where there's a rough 2-1/2 inch to 3 inch opening in the ziplock bags along with the plexiglass above them. They're getting some mottled sunlight with condensation on the side of the bags...feeling inside the temperature seems fine.

Today, though, seems like a spring day...it's 1:23pm CST and it's only 88F!!!!!!!!!!! It feels good!!!! :D But, it's an upward trend from now through Thursday.
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By Intheswamp
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#415752
Well, the tiny traps are still going. They're 27 days old now and the largest leaf-spread is probably 1/4", maybe 5/16". Unless some more seeds crack open it looks like I'm going to end up with roughly a 40% germination rate. I've been opening them up some but closing them tighter most of the time to keep the humidity up. They're in bright open shade with mottled direct sunlight during the middle of the day. I could move them over to the hold trailer where I have the growlights for starting my vegetable seedlings but it'd be HOT in there without running the $$ central unit to cool it down. I'm hoping they're getting enough light, though.

Today I started another pot of flytrap seeds. These are the premium mix from Matt/FTS. I used 20 seeds in a 6" pot in the same peat moss, sand, and perlite mix and a top dressing of sifted peat moss. I placed the pot in a gallon ziplock bag with it opened roughly two inches. I have the pot sitting where the other I had the pots with hollyhock's seeds in them...in the backside/sheltered end of an open-ended garage next to a large west window, but not in direct sunlight.

Now I've got to get ready for the DCXL x blacksheep seeds coming from the seed bank! :D
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By Intheswamp
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#416493
Seeds were planted on June 4th.
Update:
On June 18th I noted some seeds had germinated...
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Today, July 10th, it's about 22 days since the first seeds germinated, 36 days since seeds were planted here's a shot of where they're at...
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By Camden M
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#416562
Hmm… you think milled LFSM would work in place of peat? ( I mean I’d say so because it’s essentially the same thing, just decomposed Sphagnum, but I’d like your guy’s’ opinion)
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By Intheswamp
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#416571
I wish I was experienced enough to answer your LFSM question, Camden M. Lots of good things said about LFSM but then some speak of the seeds getting loss down in it (maybe they're not talking about milled moss, though) and that it possibly holds "too much" moisture. As for the moisture, I know that I keep the growing chamber pretty damp.

One thing I'm curious about is the use of hydrogen peroxide at planting time. The effects of H2O2 on seed germination, it seems, has been noted as positive ones. A ratio of 1:32 of H2O2 to water is what I've seen mentioned and the seeds are soaked in the mix from several hours to overnight. The seeds are then rinsed and planted. From what I've read the H2O2 acts as a fungicide on the seed but also speeds up germination in that it softens the seeds' outer covering while introducing a great deal of oxygen. Also, H2O2 is often suggested for a soil spray when mold starts growing on the surface, though it's not recommended on young seedlings/sprouts. I may have some of that wrong, so check me on it, but that's pretty much how I understand it.

What I'm wondering about is not pre-soaking the seeds but rather spraying the H2O2 mix on the surface of the soil *after* the seeds are scattered on top of it. The spray would possibly treat any fungus/bacteria starting to grow on the soil surface over the first few hours and also treat the seeds. It would also help soften the seed covers and impart a does of oxygen to the germs. Then, maybe 12 hours later, spray it all down good with some distilled/rainwater...??? I've got some more seeds to plant so I may try this on a small pot or two. Thoughts are welcome. ;)
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By hollyhock
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Joined:  Thu Mar 05, 2015 8:56 am
#416616
I sowed about 50 of the same seeds 3 weeks ago. I simply take well rinsed lfsm, I put in in a carry out container with a clear lid. Then i sprinkle the seeds around and mist them down really well. Put a heat mat under it. Place it 8-10 inches under a grow light. And wait.
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