FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

What is/are some things not likely on a care sheet that you do that think are helpful to yours and perhaps others growing practices?

I’ll go first:
When I was growing other plants families, a very good grower grew her plants in red solo cups. She implemented a potting process I’ve utilized for every other landscape and potted plant of planted, unless it’s something I wanted to have wet feet.
She used the “mountain and the moat” technique.
Essentially you create a mount/mound of soil in the center of the potting hole/pot center and firm the sides around the mound. The crown of the plant sits on top of the mound with the roots fanning down the sides of the mound. Fill
In and gently firm around the mound, creating the “moat”, so water runs away from the crown and around the root zone.
This is very applicable to CP’s grown in trays, as the water table can stay higher and the vulnerable crowns drain and stay drier.


Hopefully my explanation makes sense.

I found that mounds are not needed for Flytraps. This year I'm using red solo cups as styrofoam has been outlawed in N.Y. sadly. A mound might benefit cephalotus though to help keep water off the crown. I bottom water them anyway though so no worries for me.

OK, the “mountain and the moat” technique works with a peat mix. Any help tips for lfsm?

As a rank newbie one thing that I use is a simple, basic, moisture meter. It helps my uneducated self in determining the moisture status in the pots. Naturally, I also use common sense (the little that I have) and a finger at times. The meter quickly lets me get an idea of the moisture situation, though. This is the cheap and basic type that I use...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MV ... LOB4Y&th=1

I will warn that the cheap ones don't seem to work accurately. But if it works for you, and keeps your plants healthy, go for it.

I "usually" go by weight and just water the pots that feel lite compared to the other pots.

thepitchergrower wrote: ↑Sun May 15, 2022 2:18 pm I will warn that the cheap ones don't seem to work accurately. But if it works for you, and keeps your plants healthy, go for it.

<chuckle> I won't argue the "accuracy" of these, but they do seem to be consistent. My fingers used to be able to tell the dampness pretty well in a seedling pot but for some reason those days are over. This cheap meter is better than my finger. I don't rely on it 100%, but rather use it to clue me in on whether I need to check closer on moisture levels. If the needle swings way to the right things are usually wet, towards the middle things are "ok for now", the needle barely moves "get the water jug". But seriously, I've used these little meters for decades and they keep me in the ballpark. If you ever see degradation in the little insulator at the tip toss the meter and get another one.

I agree, though, there are better meters.

I’ve noticed that new growers are obsessed with repotting and/or dividing their new vft. I know I was, lol. I think the main tip for new growers after following care sheets provided by reputable growers would be patience. Successful growing isn’t measured in weeks or months. Most of the time while vft acclimates to a new environment, it’ll look much worse before it starts to thrive.

Also, you really have to see how the plant does in your environment for at least one growing season to know what’ll work best for you. Even the experts can’t agree on tray watering versus top watering, different pot types, peat mix vs pure lfsm, etc.

I grow in 100% lfsm, in square 5”x7” white plastic pots, styrofoam cups, or large styrofoam coolers, and exclusively top water. I know when to water based on the weight of the pot. I grow outdoors during the growing season and bring my plants in to go dormant by a south facing window. This is what has worked best for me after 6-7 years of trying out different methods/media. That media and watering method might not work in the hottest driest parts of Nevada.

My plants will be fully dormant Nov to Feb, look like pure crap Mar to May (this has been the worst spring ever), and peak in July. I get 3 months of pretty traps. I know in FL or SoCal, vft can look amazing year round. Indoor plants under intense grow lights will be much more colorful than vft grown outdoors. So I guess the third tip would be don’t get disheartened if your vft don’t look as nice as someone growing in a different environment than you.

Tldr: Be patient. Follow the care sheets and tweak them to suit your own needs once you’ve experienced a full growing cycle. Don’t compare your plants to ones grown in different locations/environments than yours.

Just because some plants can tolerate cold winters doesn't mean they necessarily need it (particularly the likes of D. capensis and other African Drosera). May as well enjoy them all year round indoors.

Particularly for the UK, I see a lot of new growers obsessing over growing outdoors without a greenhouse, despite actually having a greenhouse - most temperate carnivorous plants grown outside will fare much better kept in a greenhouse all year here.

A little off topic, but....WOW!!!! Just checked London, UK, and it shows 67F/19C currently. About 200' from where I'm sitting my weather station is reporting 91F/33C. I'm jealous.