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By Supercazzola
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Posts:  1499
Joined:  Sun Nov 22, 2020 1:57 am
#376281
I need a RO/DI unit to hold me over until the summer rains come back in FL. I do not have a need for a faucet or something that goes under the sink. I literally will hook this up to an outdoor water supply and let the waste water go into the pool.

Would a unit like https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Ch ... 19&sr=8-43 be ok? Or are there better recommendations? Appreciate your thoughts ...
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By Do_Gon
Posts:  236
Joined:  Tue May 07, 2019 5:29 pm
#376308
I've been using that unit for over a year now and it works well for me. No pool so I collect the waste water in a bucket and hit the lawn with it as my gallons fill. I got the extra filter for chlorine from their site and added it. Not sure if the one you linked to includes it or not.
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By eriction
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Posts:  58
Joined:  Sun Mar 07, 2021 4:05 pm
#376311
I've been using this unit for 4-5 years for my aquariums and now my CPs. Simple to use, hooks up to outdoor faucet. Produces about 2 gallons of water per hour for me. The only catch is the sediment filter clogs really fast for me, I've since replaced that with a larger canister sediment filter. The carbon block removed chlorine so no need for the extra filter. For a cheap ready to go system that you're not using long term I'd say this is a good fit. If you want more quality you can check out bulkreefsupply for their RODI units.
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By eriction
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Posts:  58
Joined:  Sun Mar 07, 2021 4:05 pm
#376323
Panman wrote:This may be just what I was looking for. How often do you have to replace the filters?
For reference my tap comes out around 40 TDS and I only make about 3-4 gallons of RODI water a week. Your mileage will vary from mine if your tap water is much higher.

-Sediment I replace when the flow rate slows down considerably - where I am in NYC, the sediment is extremely high, flow slowed after 100 gallons (RO + Waste)
-Carbon filter every 1500 gallons (RO + waste water) - assuming the ratio of 1:3 RO:waste, that would be every 500 gallons of RO water.
-RO membrane - still haven't replaced it - replace when you notice TDS rising above 5 PPM from the RO (RO water coming before the DI resin). I still have not replaced mine
-DI Resin - scrubs out the last few PPM after the RO membrane - the resin changes color from blue to a dull brown/yellow so that you'll know when to replace. I still haven't changed mine
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By elaineo
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Joined:  Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:07 am
#376327
Good find! Are there replacement filters for this, or do you just throw the whole unit away when it's done?

And does it make sense to use an RO unit if my tap water TDS is 350 ppm? (Currently use a distiller, but it would be nice to have something more energy-efficient)
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By eriction
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Posts:  58
Joined:  Sun Mar 07, 2021 4:05 pm
#376329
elaineo wrote:Good find! Are there replacement filters for this, or do you just throw the whole unit away when it's done?

And does it make sense to use an RO unit if my tap water TDS is 350 ppm? (Currently use a distiller, but it would be nice to have something more energy-efficient)
For this specific brand, the sediment and carbon filters as a whole are meant to be replaced.

Typically true for all RO Units -
The RO membrane that you would replace is located inside the plastic housing unit.
The DI resin chamber can be opened up and the resin inside can be replaced.

Can't tell you if one or the other is more "efficient" but the RO unit will probably be a lot more convenient. Distiller might be nice in the winter to warm your house tho!
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By elaineo
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Joined:  Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:07 am
#376333
Just some estimates:
- the distiller costs about 30 cents per gallon (depending on electricity prices), and lasts pretty much forever.
- RO unit costs $60. If I can get at least 200 gallons out of this thing, then it might be worth it ?
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By Supercazzola
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Posts:  1499
Joined:  Sun Nov 22, 2020 1:57 am
#376487
Just a quick follow up. Unit arrived today. Water coming out after DI was 0 ppm. Here is my temp setup. Had to rig something up since my water bib by the pool is actually 3/8”, but I adapted to 1/4” and then fed into the unit. Have “waste water” going into pool. Have good water going into old grey garbage container. I’ll leave it running for a bit and test water after it gathers a bit. I scrubbed grey container with a scrub brush but no soap. Should be clean enough (and better than the 12-14 ppm the rain water coming off the roof is).

I think for the price, it is a much better deal than buying DI water until the summer afternoon T-storms pick back up here in FL. Plus no plastic 1G containers to recycle. Plus, I have to fill the pool due to evaporation anyway. Not concerned about TDS in the pool. But I should measure what the TDS coming out of the waste side is...
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Yes I know I need to get the leaf out of the pool next time :-)
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By elaineo
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Joined:  Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:07 am
#382308
I mounted my unit on a T-post outside. The output is compatible with 1/4" drip irrigation lines so I have all my trays on automatic drip. Waste water goes to drip lines on lower shelves, watering tomatoes and other junk plants.

DI resin got used up surprisingly fast -- you can see it's already brown in the photo. I'm not gonna bother replacing it, because a small amount of TDS isn't that big of a deal. Sorry, plants .
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By elaineo
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Joined:  Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:07 am
#382330
Supercazzola wrote:It is possible the DI wasn't supposed to be in the sunlight? I can't remember, but it does seem like it got used up quickly. I let my waste water go into the pool.
Good point. I should make a cover for it. The water here is 350ppm going in, but the RO filter should catch all that before it gets to DI stage.
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By CPhunter101
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Posts:  593
Joined:  Thu Feb 11, 2021 9:30 pm
#384964
I was running low on RO water, so I bought this filter. It works suprisingly well for $60!
I keep my filter in a shaded bucket to prevent it from overheating and the RO water is stored in a cooler.
Thanks everyone!
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