FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

I hear lots of stories that drosera capensis is a very hardy plant, hard to kill. But I also heard it needs a sufficient temperature drop at night, which I don't have. I am one of those weirdos that have never had success with drosera- no joke!! So I would like help in acclimating a bare root drosera, and how to cultivate it. Most of my issues are mold to let you know. Thanks

If it's mold try to keep circulating air (or open the container daily) to help prevent it from spreading through. It doesn't really need a temperature drop. The plant does better indoors in hotter climates. If you want to grow a drosera outside look into something like a petiolaris complex or something from that region of Australia. They love heat.

How about d. spatulata? Those are free from where I get my plants.

Spatulata and capensis are weeds. Can’t go wrong with them

Capensis and spathulata both don’t need nighttime drops. Some South African species like cuneifolia, hilaris, and ramentacea really seem to appreciate nighttime temp drops, but capensis is probably the easiest Drosera sp. and is practically a weed. Spathulata is a highly distributed species, with some forms even found in China. Almost equally as easy.

Nepenthes0260 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 11, 2020 4:02 am Capensis and spathulata both don’t need nighttime drops. Some South African species like cuneifolia, hilaris, and ramentacea really seem to appreciate nighttime temp drops, but capensis is probably the easiest Drosera sp. and is practically a weed. Spathulata is a highly distributed species, with some forms even found in China. Almost equally as easy.

So during acclimation, low light, water tray, good circulation? Can it share a pot with flytraps and sarracenia?

Apollyon wrote: ↑Wed Dec 09, 2020 1:32 pm If it's mold try to keep circulating air (or open the container daily) to help prevent it from spreading through. It doesn't really need a temperature drop. The plant does better indoors in hotter climates. If you want to grow a drosera outside look into something like a petiolaris complex or something from that region of Australia. They love heat.

Philippines is humid and warm. Would capensis be fine with that? Or should I stick with something else?

Darlingtoniafan222 wrote:

Nepenthes0260 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 11, 2020 4:02 am Capensis and spathulata both don’t need nighttime drops. Some South African species like cuneifolia, hilaris, and ramentacea really seem to appreciate nighttime temp drops, but capensis is probably the easiest Drosera sp. and is practically a weed. Spathulata is a highly distributed species, with some forms even found in China. Almost equally as easy.

So during acclimation, low light, water tray, good circulation? Can it share a pot with flytraps and sarracenia?

Acclimation is pretty easy, especially for capes and spat, so you don't have to do anything to acclimate them. They'll look rough for a bit, but bagging them helps. Capes are weeds in my sarr pots, but die each year when my sarrs go dormant. They come back from seed they produced the previous year. Although they might be coming back from the roots, I'll have to check. Generally though, capes and spat should be kept warm and bright year round, with minimal seasonal change.

Nepenthes0260 wrote:

Darlingtoniafan222 wrote:

Nepenthes0260 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 11, 2020 4:02 am Capensis and spathulata both don’t need nighttime drops. Some South African species like cuneifolia, hilaris, and ramentacea really seem to appreciate nighttime temp drops, but capensis is probably the easiest Drosera sp. and is practically a weed. Spathulata is a highly distributed species, with some forms even found in China. Almost equally as easy.

So during acclimation, low light, water tray, good circulation? Can it share a pot with flytraps and sarracenia?

Acclimation is pretty easy, especially for capes and spat, so you don't have to do anything to acclimate them. They'll look rough for a bit, but bagging them helps. Capes are weeds in my sarr pots, but die each year when my sarrs go dormant. They come back from seed they produced the previous year. Although they might be coming back from the roots, I'll have to check. Generally though, capes and spat should be kept warm and bright year round, with minimal seasonal change.

Nepenthes0260 wrote:

Darlingtoniafan222 wrote:

Nepenthes0260 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 11, 2020 4:02 am Capensis and spathulata both don’t need nighttime drops. Some South African species like cuneifolia, hilaris, and ramentacea really seem to appreciate nighttime temp drops, but capensis is probably the easiest Drosera sp. and is practically a weed. Spathulata is a highly distributed species, with some forms even found in China. Almost equally as easy.

So during acclimation, low light, water tray, good circulation? Can it share a pot with flytraps and sarracenia?

Acclimation is pretty easy, especially for capes and spat, so you don't have to do anything to acclimate them. They'll look rough for a bit, but bagging them helps. Capes are weeds in my sarr pots, but die each year when my sarrs go dormant. They come back from seed they produced the previous year. Although they might be coming back from the roots, I'll have to check. Generally though, capes and spat should be kept warm and bright year round, with minimal seasonal change.

thanks, I'll keep this in mind.

Nepenthes0260 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 11, 2020 4:02 am Capensis and spathulata both don’t need nighttime drops. Some South African species like cuneifolia, hilaris, and ramentacea really seem to appreciate nighttime temp drops, but capensis is probably the easiest Drosera sp. and is practically a weed. Spathulata is a highly distributed species, with some forms even found in China. Almost equally as easy.

What about burmanii?

Burmannii is a tropical annual, definitely likes warm temps. If it gets too cold it’ll die.

I'm in a tropical country. It's warm year round. Do I need to do anything to make the seeds germinate, or should I just leave it grow?

scatter the seeds then mist with water to force a good contact with the media.

and for temp drops, in my summers in the most extreme heat and sun they get bad looking but bounce back quick when things cool off. i read if you have night time temp drops it stops this effect.

freshly solo potted yesterday