by Sundews » Tue Nov 19, 2019 3:14 am
by jpappy789 » Wed Nov 20, 2019 7:43 pm
by Sundews » Wed Nov 20, 2019 9:56 pm
the ro unit is old like 10 or 11years. But I replace the filters regularly. My straight well water is over 700 ppms. So it does I good job for what it's up to. I could replace the unit.jpappy789 wrote:What is the source of RO water that you are using (e.g. purchased from store, your own filter, etc.)? 100 ppm is really high for RO water and that may be at least part of the issue of why the plants weren't doing well. It's usually recommended to stay <50 ppm for more mineral-sensitive CPs like sundews.
As for the terrariums, which species are you trying to grow? I am personally not a huge fan because I think they mostly just get in the way. In my experience, most Drosera do not need that high of humidity unless your living situation has your ambient humidity <30% or so. And having a lot of moss around will help keep the humidity directly around the plants a bit higher than what's in the room.
Posting a picture of your current setup might help people get a better idea of what you currently have.
by jpappy789 » Wed Nov 20, 2019 10:32 pm
by SundewWolf » Wed Nov 20, 2019 10:43 pm
by Sundews » Sun Nov 24, 2019 11:16 pm
by Sundews » Sun Nov 24, 2019 11:39 pm
SundewWolf wrote:I don't think the issue with your plants is due to the fact that they aren't in deep, lush, live sphagnum. To me that peat/substrate looks like it may be old, or too damp, as it's growing algae and has likely compacted and gone anaerobic in some areas.
I haven't really gotten my sphagnum to grow well in terrariums for whatever reason, but I do have my drosera intermedia and rotundifolia growing in pots outside in live sphagnum which I layered like a bog and keep them in fairy high water through the summer.
Your's look like capensis and maybe capillaris? The capensis would likely do better if repotted into a fresh mix of sphag and perlite and kept a little less wet that what's needed to grow sphagnum. Of course in a high humidity terrarium the sphag would grow better but you don't really need that for capensis. The capillaris would probably do fine in either fresh peat or sphagnum. Like I said, I think if you repotted into fresh substrate you don't have to worry about building a terrarium or changing this set up too much. Sometimes my sundews sulk but then bounce back after a fresh repotting.
Also how old are your t5's? I heard they loose strength over time and some even say to replace the bulbs every 2 years. I've almost entirely switched over to LED so obviously I recommend them, but if those t5's are old and you don't want a new light I would switch them out for new bulbs. Of course the sphagnum could burn under higher light the sundews would appreciate so we run into another potential issue of why growing them in live sphag may not be the best solution here.
The water is also kinda high for sundews, I would look into lowering that a lot and in the mean time watering with as close to 0ppm as you can.
by jpappy789 » Tue Nov 26, 2019 5:00 am
by mcgrumpers » Tue Nov 26, 2019 5:38 pm
by twitcher » Tue Nov 26, 2019 6:19 pm
by Sundews » Wed Nov 27, 2019 2:36 am
twitcher wrote:I'm in PA so we have similar climates. Please consider the following:
1. With the level of TDS in your RO, you should flush out your trays regularly. Consider having water that is 100 TDS in the tray. It evaporates leaving the minerals behind. You add the same amount of water with 100 TDS, which absorbs the minerals left behind, so now you have 200 TDS water in the tray. While this is a simplification for illustration purposes, the principle hold. I use 0 TDS ro water but after a month or two when I check the TDS water in the trays, it has increased.
Check your water in the trays! Use a TDS meter. Periodically drain, rinse, wipe dry before reusing. This helps maintain cleanliness as well and slows down pest algae.
2. I agree with the comments above regarding lighting. However I suggest using the light for a longer period of time. I keep my CP's under light for 12-16 hours per day. Moving out of the window could help if sunlight is too hot or bright.
3. I would not let the sundews sit in a tray that does not have any water. Minimum half inch at all times unless there is a specific reason for letting them dry, such as dormancy for some of the species at which point they need a separate tray.
by twitcher » Wed Nov 27, 2019 3:31 am
by steve booth » Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:23 am
by Sundews » Wed Nov 27, 2019 6:57 pm
jpappy789 wrote:Sundews like a lot of light, so I would be skeptical if the sunlight is somehow too much.
I echo the comment about changing media though.
by jpappy789 » Mon Dec 02, 2019 1:51 am
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