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Discuss Drosera, Byblis, and Drosophyllum plant care here

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By Cross
Posts:  1849
Joined:  Fri Oct 26, 2018 11:25 pm
#331773
I can bring life in tree form of children, a business, Ill kittens, long dead sphagnum moss, but I can't germinate drosera seeds. Well, I'll give them more time. It's been like two weeks. I've got them covered and on a heat mat (ambient is around 70, then add heat mat with +10 to 20 degrees) there's green stuff, but I don't think drosera. I'm growing vfts and sarracenias, no growth either. Maybe I'm just impatient, or I should never be growing from seed. ImageImage

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By CpKid
Posts:  389
Joined:  Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:13 pm
#331780
My D. Capensis took almost 4 weeks to germinate, I wouldn't give up hope yet. Nice job with the Shag. btw! I've never been able to bring any to life
By twitcher
Posts:  656
Joined:  Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:56 am
#331781
I've not been successful with starting drosera on sphagnum.

I get pretty good results using an organic peat mixed with sand, with a very thin layer of fine sand (1/8th inch) as the top layer. What is green in the pics is the ever present star moss which usually comes from spores/seeds in the peat. That is why I always boil the peat, then rinse it in distilled water. The moss can out-compete the seedlings. I also wash the sand in distilled water just to be safe.

I am very much a newbie with drosera seeds, but seeing regular success using the method above. Going to try water germination at some point soon.
By King Drosophyllum VI
Location: 
Posts:  147
Joined:  Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:10 pm
#331782
Some of my Drosera capensis seed's took almost two months to germinate. I'l post a picture later so you know what they look like.
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By evenwind
Location: 
Posts:  2178
Joined:  Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:16 pm
#331784
I claim no expertise but I've had a different experience with D capensis. Basically, I just sow them on either (hand-chopped) NZS or peat/sand, put them under a dome, set them under my lights and wait. I typically get germination at just over two weeks.

These pics were taken exactly 1 month after sowing.
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By FlyTrap Hunter
Posts:  761
Joined:  Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:05 am
#331789
You can get some bum seeds as well.
Some seeds take longer.
For me I had a hard time getting seeds to germinate. but once you get it dialed in, you will have Sundews like crazy.
I used a very large pickle jar and had soil and then live sphagnum on top. Set it in a sunny window. Put the seeds in and misted often and it works just fine.
I do what KK suggested and just sprinkle Sundew seeds around in my pots. It's fun not really knowing what they are.
I started fly traps in live Sphagnum Moss but likely lost a lot because the moss outgrows the seedlings
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By Shadowtski
Location: 
Posts:  4723
Joined:  Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:19 am
#331797
You can always request more seeds from our FlyTrapCare Community Seed Bank.

I'd suggest trying to germinate them using peatmoss instead of long fibered Sphagnum Moss, next time.

Water germination has also been very successful for some growers.

Keep on plugging away, sooner or later, you'll find something that works well for you.
By KategoricalKarnivore
Posts:  1769
Joined:  Wed Aug 24, 2016 5:00 pm
#331798
Keep waiting. I’ve had Drosera seeds sprout after a year. I never throw out any pot with seeds until at least a year has passed. Some can take a few years actually. So basically wait a little longer or a lot but don’t give up.
By Proudfather77
Posts:  56
Joined:  Sun Dec 16, 2018 10:56 pm
#331852
KategoricalKarnivore wrote:Keep waiting. I’ve had Drosera seeds sprout after a year. I never throw out any pot with seeds until at least a year has passed. Some can take a few years actually. So basically wait a little longer or a lot but don’t give up.

No germination love = That is My experience with 3 separate sellers/providers of drosera finlaysoniana ... 8 weeks on some on peat, and some on peat/sand (some Fin. seeds from E-O-W, ebay, whose Burmani "Gift" seeds conversely are germinating like crazy and now 1/4" @ 4 wks).


Started over ... and have 3 bins:
1. Seed Bank Finlaysoniana 2016 vintage
2. Finlay. from LittleGreenMonsters on ebay
3. Drosera Serpens - I know, I know but still drosera indica complex

Not hijacking the thread ... I do agree it just takes patience that we have to coax out. And keep trying and sharing results.
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By Cross
Posts:  1849
Joined:  Fri Oct 26, 2018 11:25 pm
#331865
I have been tying to reply for days, but it is having a problem contacting the server, so it says anyway. Can I reply now? If so:

Thanks everyone for your replies. I read on a forum that sowing them on lfsm can help them germinate. I'm really bummed because I really wanted those droseras. I definitely won't do that again. I took what everyone said and made some adjustments. I moved the pots av smidge closer together. I was originally concerned with burning the seeds if I put the light to close. But it's an LED, it shouldn't cause that much heat should it? I put it a few inches over the pots. My kitchen (their safe space lol) stays around 65, so i left them on the heat mat. I open the saran wrap top and fan some air in once a day. I mist them when they look a little dry, so every third day or so. Cp seeds are hydrophobic right, so I'm not over watering am i?
By twitcher
Posts:  656
Joined:  Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:56 am
#331878
Cross, I'm just a beginner here with seeds but want to help. My binata came from seed and they are very easy. The ones you are trying to start have a reputation for being more difficult.

I start all my drosera seeds in small plastic pots, usually the 4" size. They are much easier to manage then the ones you are using, and aluminum will break down eventually. Don't know if it is toxic in the long term. Pot size will vary of course but many drosera are easily transplanted. Don't change your setup now, as you likely won't be able to find the seeds and will make it worse.

A few inches from LEDs should work as long as they are bright ones. Mist daily if the plants are not covered.

A lesson I learned is to not plant all the seeds in a single pot and do not plant all of the seeds the same way at the some time. Plant a few, learn, then plant some more.

Also check out this reference http://www.carnivorousplants.org/grow/guides/Dindica
By Copper2
#331880
I’ve only had success with planting seeds in TC so far. I’ve germinated D. binata, and S. leucopylla that way. I’m germinating Darlingtonia and D. capensis right now but no success yet.

I discovered it’s best to remove the seedlings from TC ASAP once they’ve sprouted. Otherwise they become less hardy and lose their roots. And getting them to root once transferred to peat takes a while...
By FlyTrap Hunter
Posts:  761
Joined:  Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:05 am
#331890
I have some d. Intermedia temperate seeds and some d. Spatulata Frazier island and d. Tokiensis, a very nice type that you can have if you PM me your address.
I would just sprinkle them around in my fly trap pots.
But however you do it I can promise these seeds will sprout fast.
I killed 4 sets of Sundews from the seed bank and most all the seeds I got from FTC before seeds germinated.
I tried different types of Sundews to see what works well in my location.
All said and done I just decided to grow CPs native to NC. I still have a d.binata and d Tracyi that is not native but very hardy here. And they lived outside all Winter. Still waiting for the d.binata to come back from the roots. The other makes hybernacula
By Nightbreed
Posts:  269
Joined:  Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:29 am
#331904
I've failed every sundew I have ever tried. You just keep on trying until something grows. (I hope). Oh and for replying I'm having problems too but only with Tapatalk.

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