FlytrapCare Carnivorous Plant Forums

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Discussions on how to propagate your plants sexually and asexually, by seed, natural division or leaf pulling

Moderator: Matt

By Droseracloner314
Posts:  155
Joined:  Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:18 pm
#185807
so I have a few questions that I have not been able to find the answers to on the countless threads here! so here are some questions for you kind experts!
1. how long can I keep a water propagated plant in a container? I ask because I have awesome magenta ga7 vessels that would look so cool with a growing flytrap in it for awhile!
2. can you use agar and food dye, to both thicken the water and to add cool color?
3. can you add PPM to help with contaminations? (I know that this is not a sanitized way to propagate but would PPM help reduce contamination problems?)
4. would petri dishes work fine for flytraps or sundews?
5. can the leaf, whether it be a flytrap or sundew, touch the side of the container without harming the process?
6. And one more i came up with, Obviously TC is fast at creating clones, is water propagation a slower growing process than TC? But water propagation os probably a better starting point for a beginner?

and I may have several more for you experts. thanks in advance!
By rellenburg
Posts:  241
Joined:  Fri Aug 10, 2012 2:57 am
#187209
I'll try to help a little. I'm afraid the addition of agar without sterile conditions will result in contamination.
User avatar
By roarke
Posts:  2415
Joined:  Sun Nov 08, 2009 3:11 am
#187348
4. would petri dishes work fine for flytraps or sundews?
Yes, for drosera capensis alba (i dit it already)
5. can the leaf, whether it be a flytrap or sundew, touch the side of the container without harming the process?
Yes.

After the plants has germinated in distilled water only, either from seeds or from stalk/leaf/root cuttings, they must grow for a minimum of 2 weeks in that container and they will develop about 3 carnivorous leaves. If the humidity is high in your room, remove them without acclimation. If your room is low in humidity, make holes in saran wrap when you move them in a container. The holes are being made after one week and than, after a few days period, increasing the numbers of holes made.

Humidity in air :
High >60
Low <30
By Sander
Posts:  1226
Joined:  Thu Nov 29, 2012 6:29 pm
#187351
Droseracloner314 wrote:so I have a few questions that I have not been able to find the answers to on the countless threads here! so here are some questions for you kind experts!
1. how long can I keep a water propagated plant in a container? I ask because I have awesome magenta ga7 vessels that would look so cool with a growing flytrap in it for awhile!
2. can you use agar and food dye, to both thicken the water and to add cool color?
3. can you add PPM to help with contaminations? (I know that this is not a sanitized way to propagate but would PPM help reduce contamination problems?)
4. would petri dishes work fine for flytraps or sundews?
5. can the leaf, whether it be a flytrap or sundew, touch the side of the container without harming the process?
6. And one more i came up with, Obviously TC is fast at creating clones, is water propagation a slower growing process than TC? But water propagation os probably a better starting point for a beginner?

and I may have several more for you experts. thanks in advance!
1. Well, im trying now, have had some drosera and dionaea cuttings in there for 3 months.
2. if u mean agarose by agar, then yes u can, if u mean full nutrient agar, u cant.
3. Yes, although i have never ever had any issues with water propagation (only with algae at times, but just change the water if it happens)
4. Yes, their are perfect if u have multiple leafs (i use them as well)
5. Yes, no problem at all.
6. Yes, its slower in the long run, but u get stronger plants (tc culture plants tent to be weaker), as i see it, its a quick and dirty method which anyone can use with a high amount of successes
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