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By nimbulan
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Posts:  2397
Joined:  Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:03 pm
#267194
Generally all grow lights fall in the range of about 3000K - 6500K color temperature. Some people recommend different values, but I don't think it really matters a whole lot. Lower temperatures are more red while higher temperatures are more blue. I've used 6400K and 5400K fluorescent bulbs but I personally like the appearance of my 4000K LED better.

Lumens is a measurement of how much light the fixture emits. That number by itself isn't terribly important since it doesn't tell you how much light your plants are actually receiving - lux (lumens per square meter) is. There are various smartphone apps that will use the phone's light meter to tell you the lux of your current setup, though I can't attest to their accuracy. You can approximately calculate the average lux of a fixture by dividing the lumen output by the grow area you will be using it in (in square meters) assuming a negligible amount of waste light.

For instance if we assume my LED outputs 9000 lumens, and I have it covering approximately a 2'x2' area (that's about .37 square meters) then that gives me an average lux of 23,324. Of course the light from this fixture isn't uniform so my Heliamphora in the middle are receiving around 100,000 lux according to a smartphone meter. I would aim for a minimum of about 15,000 lux for full sun plants, and a maximum of maybe 10,000 lux for lower light CPs.
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By tannerm
Posts:  1589
Joined:  Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:24 am
#267196
nimbulan wrote:Generally all grow lights fall in the range of about 3000K - 6500K color temperature. Some people recommend different values, but I don't think it really matters a whole lot. Lower temperatures are more red while higher temperatures are more blue. I've used 6400K and 5400K fluorescent bulbs but I personally like the appearance of my 4000K LED better.

Lumens is a measurement of how much light the fixture emits. That number by itself isn't terribly important since it doesn't tell you how much light your plants are actually receiving - lux (lumens per square meter) is. There are various smartphone apps that will use the phone's light meter to tell you the lux of your current setup, though I can't attest to their accuracy. You can approximately calculate the average lux of a fixture by dividing the lumen output by the grow area you will be using it in (in square meters) assuming a negligible amount of waste light.

For instance if we assume my LED outputs 9000 lumens, and I have it covering approximately a 2'x2' area (that's about .37 square meters) then that gives me an average lux of 23,324. Of course the light from this fixture isn't uniform so my Heliamphora in the middle are receiving around 100,000 lux according to a smartphone meter. I would aim for a minimum of about 15,000 lux for full sun plants, and a maximum of maybe 10,000 lux for lower light CPs.
Thank you for the info. Very helpful. I would rather have an LED. Could you link me to yours please? Also, why is the lux so high for your heli? Which species is it?


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By nimbulan
Location: 
Posts:  2397
Joined:  Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:03 pm
#267197
I should really emphasize the DIY nature of my light. I had to order the LEDs and drivers direct from the factory in China (minimum 4 LEDs per order) and utilize old computer heatsinks, drill and tap them, and wire everything up myself, including power for the fan.

This is the LED chip I used: http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and- ... mp-CXB3070 in 4000K, BD bin (the highest output bin in that color temperature.)

Alternatively you can order a pre-assembled fixture which is a bit more expensive but a ton easier. These are designed for much larger areas and come with multiple lights so the entry cost is pretty high: http://timbergrowlights.com/products/di ... ight-kits/

About the Helis, I have an H. minor and an H. heterodoxa there and if I'm honest it's far more light than necessary but I know those plants can handle it so I put them in the hotspot rather than risk some other plants. I'm looking for ways to spread the light out and make it more uniform so I don't have such a bright spot in the middle but haven't done anything about it yet. It can actually be rather nice being able to adjust the light level for different plants based on where I put them.
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By tannerm
Posts:  1589
Joined:  Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:24 am
#267198
nimbulan wrote:I should really emphasize the DIY nature of my light. I had to order the LEDs and drivers direct from the factory in China (minimum 4 LEDs per order) and utilize old computer heatsinks, drill and tap them, and wire everything up myself, including power for the fan.

This is the LED chip I used: http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and- ... mp-CXB3070 in 4000K, BD bin (the highest output bin in that color temperature.)

Alternatively you can order a pre-assembled fixture which is a bit more expensive but a ton easier. These are designed for much larger areas and come with multiple lights so the entry cost is pretty high: http://timbergrowlights.com/products/di ... ight-kits/

About the Helis, I have an H. minor and an H. heterodoxa there and if I'm honest it's far more light than necessary but I know those plants can handle it so I put them in the hotspot rather than risk some other plants. I'm looking for ways to spread the light out and make it more uniform so I don't have such a bright spot in the middle but haven't done anything about it yet. It can actually be rather nice being able to adjust the light level for different plants based on where I put them.
Very impressive. Wish I knew enough to make my own. What do you think about this? http://www.bmlhorticulture.com/led-ligh ... ral-white/

Also, do you have any pics of your helis? I actually have a cross between the two and the last few pitchers it's produced have been absent their "cherry tops" :(


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By nimbulan
Location: 
Posts:  2397
Joined:  Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:03 pm
#267199
This is H. heterodoxa:

Image

And H. minor, which you can see has been having trouble developing nectar spoons like your plant. I suspect it's due to the low humidity (40-50% most of the time.) A genetically different H. minor would probably have less trouble, as it is supposed to be one of the most tolerant species, along with H. heterodoxa and H. nutans.

Image

Both plants are redder than they should be due to the high light levels.
By Benurmanii
Posts:  2000
Joined:  Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:34 pm
#267201
tannerm wrote:
nimbulan wrote:I should really emphasize the DIY nature of my light. I had to order the LEDs and drivers direct from the factory in China (minimum 4 LEDs per order) and utilize old computer heatsinks, drill and tap them, and wire everything up myself, including power for the fan.

This is the LED chip I used: http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and- ... mp-CXB3070 in 4000K, BD bin (the highest output bin in that color temperature.)

Alternatively you can order a pre-assembled fixture which is a bit more expensive but a ton easier. These are designed for much larger areas and come with multiple lights so the entry cost is pretty high: http://timbergrowlights.com/products/di ... ight-kits/

About the Helis, I have an H. minor and an H. heterodoxa there and if I'm honest it's far more light than necessary but I know those plants can handle it so I put them in the hotspot rather than risk some other plants. I'm looking for ways to spread the light out and make it more uniform so I don't have such a bright spot in the middle but haven't done anything about it yet. It can actually be rather nice being able to adjust the light level for different plants based on where I put them.
Very impressive. Wish I knew enough to make my own. What do you think about this? http://www.bmlhorticulture.com/led-ligh ... ral-white/

Also, do you have any pics of your helis? I actually have a cross between the two and the last few pitchers it's produced have been absent their "cherry tops" :(


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The lack of nectar spoons can be an indication of a wide variety of problems, but usually it is just not enough light.
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By tannerm
Posts:  1589
Joined:  Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:24 am
#267202
Benurmanii wrote:
tannerm wrote:
nimbulan wrote:I should really emphasize the DIY nature of my light. I had to order the LEDs and drivers direct from the factory in China (minimum 4 LEDs per order) and utilize old computer heatsinks, drill and tap them, and wire everything up myself, including power for the fan.

This is the LED chip I used: http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and- ... mp-CXB3070 in 4000K, BD bin (the highest output bin in that color temperature.)

Alternatively you can order a pre-assembled fixture which is a bit more expensive but a ton easier. These are designed for much larger areas and come with multiple lights so the entry cost is pretty high: http://timbergrowlights.com/products/di ... ight-kits/

About the Helis, I have an H. minor and an H. heterodoxa there and if I'm honest it's far more light than necessary but I know those plants can handle it so I put them in the hotspot rather than risk some other plants. I'm looking for ways to spread the light out and make it more uniform so I don't have such a bright spot in the middle but haven't done anything about it yet. It can actually be rather nice being able to adjust the light level for different plants based on where I put them.
Very impressive. Wish I knew enough to make my own. What do you think about this? http://www.bmlhorticulture.com/led-ligh ... ral-white/

Also, do you have any pics of your helis? I actually have a cross between the two and the last few pitchers it's produced have been absent their "cherry tops" :(


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The lack of nectar spoons can be an indication of a wide variety of problems, but usually it is just not enough light.
It has the spoons. They're just pale green. I'm almost entirely certain it's due to lack of light.


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By tannerm
Posts:  1589
Joined:  Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:24 am
#267203
nimbulan wrote:This is H. heterodoxa:

Image

And H. minor, which you can see has been having trouble developing nectar spoons like your plant. I suspect it's due to the low humidity (40-50% most of the time.) A genetically different H. minor would probably have less trouble, as it is supposed to be one of the most tolerant species, along with H. heterodoxa and H. nutans.

Image

Both plants are redder than they should be due to the high light levels.
Very deep red! And yes, I've heard they require 70%+ humidity


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By tannerm
Posts:  1589
Joined:  Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:24 am
#267211
Benurmanii wrote:
tannerm wrote:What do you guys think of the lights in this series?
http://www.bmlhorticulture.com/individu ... te-series/
They seem pretty pricey, I would just make your own if you are going the LED route. You will save a lot of money.
I want to, don't have the know how though.


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By tannerm
Posts:  1589
Joined:  Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:24 am
#267213
VenusPhoenix wrote:What about a led light from a phone?

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Joking?


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By VenusPhoenix
Posts:  12
Joined:  Mon May 19, 2014 8:21 pm
#267214
tannerm wrote:
VenusPhoenix wrote:What about a led light from a phone?

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Joking?


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Well i mean if i didnt have any legit lighting but if i had a old android phone with an led light could i rig something up for the plant im just curious please dont troll me

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