- Thu Apr 18, 2013 11:36 am
#172923
I've always seen a lot of posts about people wanting Red Traps so I'm here to explain how to achieve them(in detail)...
Firstly there are two types of growers,
1) The grower who enjoys the plant for the fact that it can close and digest insects/ or you grow your plants outside where they catch a lot of insects
2) The grower who grows the plants for their beauty (primarily)
If you are type 1, then achieving red traps will be significantly harder because you like to feed them and trigger the traps, etc. When you feed them the trap isn't open so it can't turn red on the inner lobes. Also you wear the trap don eventually, and it stops coloration once it reaches the end of it's closing lifetime. When they digest insects there is a another problem. They extract the nitrogen from the insect and put it into new growth. Nitrogen will produce a lot of green in your plant. This is not what you want. Believe it or not, flytraps do indeed take nutrients from the soil. Just not a lot of them. And it is plenty to keep them growing big and healthy.
If you are type 2, it should be fairly easy for you. Grow your plants under T5 High Output fixtures, outside or in a greenhouse. Outside only applies f you do not have many insects around. What you want is for the trap to be blasted constantly with light. So do not feed them, trigger the traps, or do anything to cease this barrier between the inside lobes and the light. The plant will eventually build large amounts of carbohydrates and then they will start to color up very fast. I've had King Henry's who have opened up traps that were already a nice shade of red. In about a week or maybe a few days less, the traps were deep blood red. Oddly enough, I've found my plants producing traps just as large as the ones who gorge themselves with flies, bees, and spiders outside.
The main factors you should take into consideration for the color of your flytrap
What medium it is growing in:
A medium with a low pH will produce much better coloration than one with a higher acidic pH
Personally, I use 100% Long Fibered Sphagnum Moss, which I deem as the superior growing medium.
How much light its receiving and how strong the light is:
If you live in Florida as opposed to California, your plants probably won't look as nice as the other guys.Reason being CA has more intense and stronger sunlight than FL, and also Florida rains all year as opposed to CA which usually only rains in the winter, where the plants don't mind it too much. So in a place like Florida, you can still get red traps, but it will take longer and the coloration will probably not be as intense.
Although, for growing, they do appreciate some cloudy days, as they can get stressed out when left under strong light for long periods of time. Believe it or not, they really aren't truly full sun plants.
Your Climate:
Optimal temperatures is usually in the cooler region for flytraps. When it get's too hot they seem not to get very red.
Also low humidity does not benefit them at all. This brings me to another subject:
Flytraps can live almost anywhere and thrive. But that doesn't mean they're in optimal conditions. You can have a beautiful plant in Texas outside but the plant would grow better where the temperatures were cooler and the humidity was higher. I know folks who think that high humidity isn't good for flytraps, but this is when they're in a terrarium or somewhere where the airflow isn't good. This leads to mold and other fungi.
Time of year:
After your plants have been "blasted" in the sun for a while and the year starts to end, you will likely have some nice Maroon and Burgundy traps. This method I use has colored up plants like 'Dentate Traps' to a blood red with a nice thick red band on the outer lobes of the traps, and even gets 'Justina Davis' a very obvious blush, rather than the light one it has. You will likely find the best coloration comes during the fall and winter, when they're dormant. If you have one of the warmer dormancies, your plant will be more colorful in the springtime than it would if you had a colder one. My plants retain their leaves during dormancy and they can still build up with more carbs.
Age of the plant:
For red plants like 'Green Dragon', they seem to be more colorful and produce more anthocyanin than their older counterparts.
I am in the process of completely redoing a test I did for all he mentioned factors. Pics to come.
Thanks for reading,
Chas
Firstly there are two types of growers,
1) The grower who enjoys the plant for the fact that it can close and digest insects/ or you grow your plants outside where they catch a lot of insects
2) The grower who grows the plants for their beauty (primarily)
If you are type 1, then achieving red traps will be significantly harder because you like to feed them and trigger the traps, etc. When you feed them the trap isn't open so it can't turn red on the inner lobes. Also you wear the trap don eventually, and it stops coloration once it reaches the end of it's closing lifetime. When they digest insects there is a another problem. They extract the nitrogen from the insect and put it into new growth. Nitrogen will produce a lot of green in your plant. This is not what you want. Believe it or not, flytraps do indeed take nutrients from the soil. Just not a lot of them. And it is plenty to keep them growing big and healthy.
If you are type 2, it should be fairly easy for you. Grow your plants under T5 High Output fixtures, outside or in a greenhouse. Outside only applies f you do not have many insects around. What you want is for the trap to be blasted constantly with light. So do not feed them, trigger the traps, or do anything to cease this barrier between the inside lobes and the light. The plant will eventually build large amounts of carbohydrates and then they will start to color up very fast. I've had King Henry's who have opened up traps that were already a nice shade of red. In about a week or maybe a few days less, the traps were deep blood red. Oddly enough, I've found my plants producing traps just as large as the ones who gorge themselves with flies, bees, and spiders outside.
The main factors you should take into consideration for the color of your flytrap
What medium it is growing in:
A medium with a low pH will produce much better coloration than one with a higher acidic pH
Personally, I use 100% Long Fibered Sphagnum Moss, which I deem as the superior growing medium.
How much light its receiving and how strong the light is:
If you live in Florida as opposed to California, your plants probably won't look as nice as the other guys.Reason being CA has more intense and stronger sunlight than FL, and also Florida rains all year as opposed to CA which usually only rains in the winter, where the plants don't mind it too much. So in a place like Florida, you can still get red traps, but it will take longer and the coloration will probably not be as intense.
Although, for growing, they do appreciate some cloudy days, as they can get stressed out when left under strong light for long periods of time. Believe it or not, they really aren't truly full sun plants.
Your Climate:
Optimal temperatures is usually in the cooler region for flytraps. When it get's too hot they seem not to get very red.
Also low humidity does not benefit them at all. This brings me to another subject:
Flytraps can live almost anywhere and thrive. But that doesn't mean they're in optimal conditions. You can have a beautiful plant in Texas outside but the plant would grow better where the temperatures were cooler and the humidity was higher. I know folks who think that high humidity isn't good for flytraps, but this is when they're in a terrarium or somewhere where the airflow isn't good. This leads to mold and other fungi.
Time of year:
After your plants have been "blasted" in the sun for a while and the year starts to end, you will likely have some nice Maroon and Burgundy traps. This method I use has colored up plants like 'Dentate Traps' to a blood red with a nice thick red band on the outer lobes of the traps, and even gets 'Justina Davis' a very obvious blush, rather than the light one it has. You will likely find the best coloration comes during the fall and winter, when they're dormant. If you have one of the warmer dormancies, your plant will be more colorful in the springtime than it would if you had a colder one. My plants retain their leaves during dormancy and they can still build up with more carbs.
Age of the plant:
For red plants like 'Green Dragon', they seem to be more colorful and produce more anthocyanin than their older counterparts.
I am in the process of completely redoing a test I did for all he mentioned factors. Pics to come.
Thanks for reading,
Chas