Venus fly traps!

The musings of Carnivorous Plant addicts!

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Hi im looking for rare and new DIONAEA  to buy and even trade as well, size doesnt really matter but the larger the better, these are the one Im looking for below:   ADENTATE WB3 ERORR MASTER OF DISATER RAPTOR PLUTO RED PLUTO PHALANX SHUPPENSTIEL 2 SHUPPENSTIEL 1 ANGEL WINGS 1979 1955 AUSTRALIAN RED ROSETTE BCP X11 BLANCHE HERMINE CROCODILE GREEN SHUPPENSTIEL GREEN SAWTOOTH LONG PETIOLE MISS PIMBECHE RED DEVIL RED MICRO-TEETH ROSE SCARLATINE SPOTTY SUNRISE TRITON UMGEKREMPELT WEREWOLF WEINROT ZICKZACKKIEFER VITILIGO TREV RED DENTATE TOOTHLESS QUALZUCHT GREEN PIRANHA GAP TEETH BRUTAL SHARK FIRE MOUTH CUPPED TRAP FUSED  
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I have just planted my vft seeds, hopefully they will do something, I will keep you informed
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got these for christmas (2012)!!!! exciting. but they started to die a few weeks later.   so, i discovered they need a period of dormancy. how do i approach this??    this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkAfLHpauHs) suggested i store them in a plastic bag (for humidity) but i was wondering if there are alternate ways??   heres what they look like now!
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I'm attempting to save a Waratah that we planted earlier this year. I wasn't interested in gardening then, and generally believed watering on occasional basis will keep it going and then bloom. Due to my ignorance, by not taking into proper research and simply assuming it will last basing on my understanding of plants, the plant is quickly coming to an end.  I'm attempting to salvage it, but I think when the weather has cooled down and I have bought suitable soil, I'll have it transferred to a pot. Problem is I've never done re-potting before, so I'm worried that become an issue, but I suppose I can only try, it'll become an experience.   " alt="Condition it is currently in, will attempt to save it" width="20" height="20" />  
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hello,   I will update date this blog soon.  here is a bit about my self I am a uk (London )VFT. I have got six  venus flytraps.   http://www.flytrapcare.com/phpBB3/amazon-distilled-water-t17015.html   Venus of the uk        
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This is my second day as a member, and I'm settling in nicely, thanks. My three little Venus Fly Traps are in an Eastern window that gets lots of morning sun.  They're in a corner with a few hydroponic bamboo plants, so I think they should have good humidity without overdoing it.   I don't want for flies, because I've got a year-round farm share, and there's always fruit and produce on the counters, waiting to be cooked, eaten or put up.   It's not fly central, but there are some, and I've moved a couple of tomatoes and some fruit near the corner, so that the fly contingent gets close.   In the same corner as the bamboo and the VFT's, in the back by the windowsill lives a pet spider, who catches flies herself, by the number.    She's pretty small, but hardworking.   I don't think she'll go into the traps--she's pretty smart. About four traps have closed since yesterday, and a few opened which have carcasses in them.  I'm glad to know that they work. My list of things to do: 1. Order VFT medium and figure out pots.   My little guys are in too small, too shallow ones. 2. Get some distilled water (didn't have all that much rainwater, but luckily had some) 3. Go back to NE Hydroponics, invite the dude to lunch and figure out if we need a little supplemental light. 4. Search around the forum to see under what circumstances people feed the plants insects--lots of people seem to do it. 5. Take pictures of the little guys to post.  One of them looks a bit different--maybe I've got 2 species. I love this!!!  
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I made rainbow cake the other day...but it was rainbow cake in a JAR.  Such a good idea if you want to send something tasty to someone, without worrying that it will smush in the mail. Also a good idea if you are travelling. I highly recommend!
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AgavoideaeYucca (QD)AloeAloe Vera (Notcutts Garden Centre)Aloe Vera (Florists)CactaceaeEchinopsis (Tesco)Echinopsis Mamillosa (Tesco)Crassulaceae Echeveria Peacockii (Market)Echeveria Setosa Deep Red (Market)Echeveria Elegans Green & Purple (Market)DracaenaDracaena Marginata (Van Hage Garden Centre)Dionaea Muscipula Typical (Notcutts Garden Centre)All Green Form (Little Shop of Horrors)Drosera CapensisAlba (Little Shop of Horrors)Red Form (Little Shop of Horrors)OrchidaceaeAncistrochilus rothschildianus (Tesco)Phalaenopsis (Notcutts Garden Centre)Paphiopedilum (Van Hage Garden Centre)
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About a week ago I recieved my VFT and Pitcher plant in the mail.They are doing well as far as I can tell.Care does not seem that complicated. I repotted them about 4 days after they had arrived and set them in a glass terrarium. I have been keeping their soil damp and the humidity fairly high.I have not fed them yet. My VFT actually turned out to be 3. The smallest one is TINY!They are nice and green and the traps are open. At least 2 of them are sprouting new traps.Already, I cant wait to add to my collection.I hope Ed watered them and turned their light on when he got up.
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1. WIP SLIM SNAPPER (FTS) 2. WACKY TRAPS (FTS) 3.KOREAN MELODY SHARK (FTS) 4.TRICHTERFALLE (FTS) (Mathias Maier) 5.DENTATE TRAPS (FTS) (CPN) (Sarracenia Northwest) 6.FTS CRIMSON SAWTOOTH (FTS) 7.PINK VENUS (FTS) (CPN) 8. RED PIRANHA (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) 9. VIGOROUS (FTS) (CPN) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) 10. BRISTLE TOOTH (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) 11. DUTCH (FTS) (CPN) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) 12. SHARK TEETH (FTS) (CPN) 13. CUPPED TRAP (FTS) (CPN) 14. CZEACH GIANT (FTS) 15. FANG (FTS) (CPN) 16. LONG RED FINGER (FTS) (CPN) 17. JAWS (FTS) 18. TYPICAL (FTS (CPN) (Sarracenia Northwest) 19. BIG MOUTH (FTS) (CPN) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) 20. AKAI RYU (RED DRAGON) (FTS) (Sarracenia Northwest) (CPN) 21. FTS MAROON MONSTER (FTS) 22. LOW GIANT (FTS) (CASCADE CARNIVOROUS PLANT) (CPN) 23. FUZZY TOOTH (FTS) (HGCP) 24. BIG VIGOROUS (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROUS) 25. DUCTH DELIGHT (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROUS) 26. B52 (FTS) (FLYTRAP RANCH) (CONNERS CARNIVORES) (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 27. SEED GROWN VFT (FTS) 28. SAWTOOTH (FTS) (CONNER CARNIVORES) (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 29.FUSED TOOTH (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROS PLANT) (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 30. FTS ETNA (FTS) 31. HOLLAND RED (FTS) 32. BOHEMIAN GARNET (FTS) (HGCP) 33. FINE TOOTH X RED (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) (CALIFORIA CARNIVORES 34. UK SAWTOOTH II (FTS) (Mathias Maier) 35. SOUTHWEST GIANT (FTS) 36. DINGLEY GIANT (FTS) 37. A2 (FTS) (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 38. BCP GIANT (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 39. BCP B52 X GIANT (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 40. BLOOD RED (JEREMIAH HARRIS) (CPN) 41. PETITE DRAGON X PETITE DRAGON (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 42. PETITE DRAGON ( JEREMIAH HARRIS) (FTS) 43. PETITE DRAGON X JAWS (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 44. JAWS X PETITE DRAGON (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 45. B52 X BIG MOUTH (COLORADO GIANT) JEREMIAH HARRIS) 46. B52 X BURBANK BEST (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 47. BURBANK BEST (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 48. CLUMPING (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 49. ALL GREEN (JEREMIAH HARRIS) (CZPLANTS) (Mathias Maier) 50. B52 X SLACK GIANT (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 51. RED LINE (HGCP) 52. B52 X GIANT FORM (HGCP) 53. BIG MOUTH X PIRANHA (HGCP) 54. ROYAL RED (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) 55. YELLOW (CPN) 56. CROSS TEETH (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANTS) 57. CLAYTON RED SUNSET (FTS) (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANTS) 58. G-14 ROSETTED (CALIFORIA CARNIVORES) (PET FLYTRAP) 59. CRESTED PETIOLE (FTS) (PET FLYTRAP) 60. SLACK'S GIANT /G-16 (DAVID DENTON) 61. DIRK VENTHAM GIANT (G-14) (DAVID DENTON) 62 .FAST (CPN) 63. TRIFFID TRAPS (CPN) 64. PARADISIA (COOK CARNIVOROUS PLANT) 65. DENTATE X PIRANHA (HGCP) 66. GREEN SAWTOOTH (HGCP) (CZPLANTS) 67. YELLOW GREEN SEED GROWN (JEREMIAH HARRIS) 68. 1955 (FTS) 69. WHALE (HGCP) 70. Z11 (CPN) 71.BIG JAWS (CPN) 72. GREEN DRAGON (FTS) (CALIORIA CARNIVORES) 73. DRACULA (HGCP) 74. STICK OF DEATH (EBAY) 75. BIOHAZARD (CZPLANTS) 76. CUDO (CZPLANTS) 78. LOUCHPATES (CZPLANTS) 79. JAWS SMILEY (CZPLANTS) 80. G12 (CZPLANTS) 81. SCHUPPENSTIEL 1 (Mathias Maier) 82. SCHUPPENSTIEL 2 (Mathias Maier) 83. KURZE ZAHNE (Mathias Maier) 84. KORRIGANS (Mathias Maier) 85. UMGEKREMPELT (Mathias Maier) 86. CROCODILE (Mathias Maier) 87. PLUTO (Mathias Maier) 88. PHALANX (Mathias Maier) 89. HARMONY (Mathias Maier) 90. OSSWEIL GIANT (Mathias Maier) 91. TRITON (Mathias Maier) 92. COQUILLAGE (Mathias Maier) 93. ANGEL WINGS (Mathias Maier) 94. MIRROR (Mathias Maier) 95. GREEN WIZARD ( FABRIZIO CALVI) 96. ALIEN 97. SQUARE TEETH 98. RED FUSED PETIOLE 99. SHORT TEETH 100. WIKLY PURPLE TRAP 101. YELLOW FUSED TOOTH 102. MICRODENT 103. FONDUE 104. X11 105. MEGA TRAP (G-17) 106. GOLD STRIKE 107. MOON TRAP 108. HAIR KAM 109. GAP TEETH 110. SL SEEDLING 111. GINORMOUS (CALIFORNIA CARNIVORES) 112. CROPPED TOOTH 113. B52 X JUSTINA DAVIS 114. GIANT PEACH 115. GIANT FORM 116. DC ALL RED 117. A25 118. BELZEBUB 119. BIG TEETH RED GIANT 120. FTS LUNATIC FRINGE 121. H3 GIANT 122. KNUCKLES (G9) 123. RED BURGUNDY 124. SCARLET BRISTLE 125. TIGER TEETH 126. MASTER OF DISATER 127. MONKEY ASS 128. RABBIT TEETH 129. WEREWOLF 130. GARGOYLE 131. FTS FLAMEING LIPS 132. ZO7 133. QUALZUCHT 134. WB7 135. WB4 136. G10 137.  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ THIS IS MY LIST OF WANTED VENUS FLYTRAP CLONES  CLAM  CLAYTONS VOLCANIC RED  EXTREME FUSED TOOTH  RED MICRODENT  SPOTTY  VITILIGO   WATERMELON GREEN MUTANT  MAROON KAYAN 1979 BARBED WIRE BLANCHE HERMINE CROPPED TOOTH BLOCTHY FTS YELLOW FTS FREAK FTS SCARLET VIXEN FTS VESUVIUS FTS PURPLE AMBUSH FTS DENTE FTS DEEP RED GUERRILLA FUSED CUP TRAP FUZZY TOOTH JANDER HENNINGS GIANT RED MICRODENT RED  PLUTO SCARLETINE WEINROT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ INCOMEING VENUS FLYTRAP FREAKY STAR KINKY WAVE RED CUP TRAP ADENTATE WB3 ERORR RAPTOR`    
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Triops longicaudatus I own a triops that is living in an old fish bowl I put some blue gravel  that I cleaned very well with distilled water any gravel works as long as its washed very well with spring water or distilled water and I used an artificial plant (real ones work to but remember triops love to eat them also I used a sealed sinker one for easy removal triops can move the gravel and if you’re using coral sand then its twice as easy they will dig under and get stuck you can easily move the plant a and free them) just for visual effect then the important part have a small food safe container ( a glass jar works well but I used a small food container from a dollar store) next is water  never use tap water I’ve heard that using tap and putting in fish conditioners but never works for me basically use the same water you use with your vft’s and pitchers I use Albertson brand distilled and spring with a 30% distilled and 70% spring but all spring waters fine but pure distilled will kill them after they hatch from the osmotic pressure if you use spring make sure that you don’t use water that in small print states purified by reverse osmosis, deionization or distillation that would be the same as using pure distilled water now fill up both containers but on the bigger tank ( if you bought a kit don’t worry about a tank but if you buy a small envelope I use these then both are needed)leave some room to dump the left over water in it  now to the eggs follow the instructions that they came with to put them in after you added the eggs into the small container take some black paper and put underneath it makes it easier to see them now leave it alone after 24 hours  Can I use a filter? Yes. The safest filter is an under gravel filter. To avoid the possibility of pulling hatchlings into the substrate and killing them, it is best you don't use an under gravel filter until all the hatchlings reach at least a few millimeters in size. After they reach this size, the filter can be used with no problems. An under gravel filter works best with gravel that can't fall down between the slots in the plate, but it can be used with lesser efficacy with sand. It would not work very well with soil, though. You may also use an internal corner filter. In the case of these types of filters, you must wait until the triops are at least 1 centimeter long or they may be pulled into the filter and killed. It is possible to use an external filter with larger triops but I don't recommend it except with large tanks. The currents generated by external filters can be very strong, and triops naturally inhabit very still, very quiet pools. How about a bubbler? It's a good idea to use a bubbler if you're not using any other sort of filtration. Even if you are using filtration, a bubbler isn't a bad idea during the first days of life when you can't use the filter. Triops are sensitive to oxygen levels, just not in the way you might expect: It would be very hard to kill triops from lack of oxygen. Oxygen levels must drop well below 1 part per million (ppm) to threaten the life of triops, and even a hot, stagnant desert pool generally contains at least 2 ppm oxygen. Even at very low oxygen levels, triops can survive for extended periods by swimming upside down at the water surface where oxygen levels are highest (they do this looking for food as well, the behavior is not necessarily indicative of low oxygen levels). However, during the first five or so days of life, triops metabolize at the maximum possible rate based upon oxygen levels, temperature, and available food. Size differences have been demonstrated in multiple lab studies where all conditions were the same except oxygen levels. They even grew faster when available oxygen was increased beyond naturally occurring levels. Secondarily, although adult growth and metabolism is not as sensitive to oxygen levels as the juveniles, fecundity is affected. Therefore, more oxygen equals bigger, faster growing triops and more eggs for the next generation. The drawback to the bubbler is it stirs up debris in the water up and obscures visibility. You will probably want to turn it off for the periods you're observing your triops. What temperature should I keep them at? For purposes of keeping triops in captivity, the best bet is to make certain that temperatures remain within a range of 22° to 31°C (72° - 86°F). They can survive at lower temps (down to 15°C), but survivability, growth, and fecundity are all impacted. Similarly, they can survive at higher temps, but juvenile survivability is impacted at 32°C and above, and exceeding 34°C can kill adults. Both species are found in all manner of environmental conditions. There are populations of T. cancriformis in Israel that regularly endure water temperatures in excess of 35°C during the hottest part of the day.  Similarly, in spite of the emphasis in many of the available instructions about how T. longicaudatus is a desert dweller and requires warm temperatures, many of the populations studied in the wild are in waters that don't go above 25°C by day and may drop to 16°C at night.  However, the general consensus is that T. longicaudatus is the more thermophillic of the two, and most accounts of rearing T. cancriformis are at temperatures well below 30°C.  Just something to keep in mind. Important: Assuming you keep your home at 22°C (72°F) or above, there is no reason you actually need to use artificial heating of any sort in spite of the claims of many triops kit instructions (or any of my suggestions). A few studies with T. longicaudatus suggest a need for regulartemperature fluctuations for maximal growth and longevity. In one study, although the average temperature was the same, triops undergoing diurnal temperature fluctuations grew nine times faster initially than the triops kept at a constant temperature. Similar studies have not been done with T. cancriformis, but an analogous requirement is possible. This can be simulated by using a fish tank heater on a timer, 10-12 hours on, 12-14 hours off. Set the heater such that it is aiming for a temp above actual room temperature and comes on in the early morning and goes off in the evening. This way, the heater kicks on in the morning and the water warms up to the target temperature by late morning/early afternoon - just like what happens when the sun comes up with a natural pool. Then it holds the high temperature through the day and gradually cools off through the night until the heater comes back on again - just like what happens when the sun goes down with a natural pool. There is a direct relationship between environmental temperature, growth rate, and size. Very similar to the relationship with oxygen described above, triops maximize their metabolism relative to the average temperature they're kept (at least initially). As little as 2°C difference in rearing temperature, all other conditions being equal, results in a definite size differential. Warmer average temps mean faster growing, bigger triops. They also probably make for shorter lived triops - they grow faster but burn out sooner. The relationship is still not fully defined, and this is provided merely as something to consider. However, at least with T. longicaudatus, the consensus of various studies suggests that an average temperature of 25°C (77°F) is the best balance between growth rate, fecundity, and survivability.  As a another issue to consider, there is some evidence with T. longicaudatus that after they reach adulthood they grow faster around 20°C versus warmer temperatures.  All in all, the exact effects of temperature on size and longevity are still not fully understood so do what seems best or most convenient to you. Hint: If you use a fish tank heater and don't use filtration or a bubbler, keep in mind that the water immediately surrounding the heater may be much warmer than the water next to the thermometer. In this situation, the thermometer may be reading 31°C but water nearest the heater is actually 36°C and lethal to triops. If you are using a heater but no sort of water circulation, don't aim for a temperature higher than about 25°C. That way you are certain not to cook your triops! What kind of light do I need? You can use any artificial light so long as the triops are receiving several hours a day. Even the ambient light in a bright room is sufficient if not optimal. I prefer fluorescent aquarium lights because triops are beautifully colored and the light makes them look their best. Don't use direct natural sunlight because it can cause a small container to overheat quickly. Some people report giving their triops light 24 hours a day and some of the kit instructions even recommend this for heating the tank. (I hate this recommendation: you can buy a 25 or 50W heater for about half the price of cheap desk lamp) While there have been no studies of photoperiod effect on triops to date, it seems unlikely that this would not have some effect on their physiology. It is known that they do better with a day/night cycle of temperature variation; it would be surprising if they didn't also prefer some sort of light/dark cycle as well for maximal health. It's obviously not lethal, but unless you absolutely must use a light 24 hours a day, I don't recommend it. What else can I raise with my triops? Keeping in mind that triops will potentially eat any of these, you can also raise fairy shrimp and daphnia with your triops. These two species also produce desiccant resistant eggs and hatch out under the same conditions as triops. Fairy shrimp can grow large enough that triops won't eat them if there's enough easier to catch food available. Daphnia, unfortunately, are too bite sized to resist and eventually are wiped in most cases. Another candidate for tank mates are aquatic snails. Although not generally natural cohabitants of triops, they do well together and the snails can help to control algae in the container. The Golden Apple Snail - Pomacea (Pomacea) bridgesii shown here is particularly recommended as it is interesting, doesn't eat your plants, doesn't reproduce very fast and is easy to get. Note: like plants, permanent aquatic residents such as snails will need their own accommodations while the triops container is being dried between generations. All info is gathered by my research and experience yes I do know what I’m talking about since I’m getting a degree in biology I know tons about triops and a lot about plants but I don’t know everything that’s why I joined this site was to learn more and I find people who aren’t scientist and are just regular people help with my learning because they do this as a hobby and know a whole lot but I really suggest that you guys take a look at triops and give them a go there easier to care for then a blade of grass
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So I got a Venus Fly Trap for Christmas from one of my closest friends and I absolutely adore it. My friend and I promptly named the Fly Trap "Elisabeth". For the sole reason of being absolutely weird.That first day we spent 45 minutes sitting next to the garbage bin trying to stun a fly, of course we had several hits, most were too hard, some were too soft and Finally we managed to get a fly stupid enough and fed it to the plant. Of course we freaked out about it and had to do it again.And today, about a week after feeding the first fly, the second largest trap in the pot opened to reveal the dead fly. I was very happy to see it, but I am terrified of touching the fly for fear of the trap closing.But I see good things in the future. I am falling in love with these plants. I just need to find more.
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Pumpkin Cupcakes *Electric mixers not required for this recipe. I use a metal whisk and silicone spatulas for everything. *I use unsalted butter because it has a much sweeter flavor than salted butter; I feel that it has a slight effect on the overall flavor of the cake and frosting. *Perfect measurements make a perfect cake. *For full size images, right-click the image and "view image." *Add nuts and extra spices to your liking; this cake is quite mild in terms of spices to allow the pumpkin flavor to shine.   2 1/2 cups flour, sifted 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/2 cup butter, softened 1 1/3 cups sugar 2 eggs, beaten until frothy 1 cup canned pumpkin 3/4 cup milk Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg into a bowl. Cream butter and sugar in separate bowl until light and fluffy, beat in eggs; then blend in mashed pumpkin. Add the butter mixture and milk to the sifted dry ingredients, mixing together until batter is smooth. Fill cups as high as you'd like; the higher they are filled, the more the cake will rise and expand out. Use the toothpick test to check on cakes; if the toothpick comes out clean, cakes are done! for mini cakes bake @ 375F for 10-15 minutes on top rack for regular sized cupcakes bake @375F for 20-25 minutes on top rack   Quick & delicious buttercream frosting: 1 box confectioners sugar1 stick softened, unsalted butter1/4 cup milk2/4 teaspoon cream cheese (adds a HINT of cream cheese flavor to the frosting; can be completely skipped) Mash out the stick of softened butter in a bowl until smooth, then add confectioners sugar. Add milk a little at a time while mixing the sugar and butter together until totally smooth; make sure you cannot feel the thin grains of confectioners sugar against your tongue or teeth; if you can, then it needs more mixing until it's completely smooth. Adding 2/4 teaspoon of cream cheese adds a hint of cream cheese flavor, but not so much that it over powers the delicious buttery flavor of the frosting. Make sure to wait until cakes are completely cooled to frost; ANY warmth will cause the frosting to loose it's thick, fluffy texture and will droop like icing. Store in the refrigerator.     I'd love to know how your cakes and frosting come out! Let me know!
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Well, I fed my flytrap a grub egg, and im not sure if thats ok or will it harm my plant.    Also some of my flytraps arn't closing, so I got a kirby and touched the trigger haird a few times but it did not close! Is it in dormancy or something? I don't think so because it is still digesting the grub egg Im not sure I was ment to feed it.    Please help
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Year 1 of my outdoor bog garden. Checking to see if a couple Leucophylla, scarlet belle, venus flytaps, and dorsera filliformis can survive our zone 5 winter under mulching.   Year 1 is a success. As of May 15, all have pulled through and are growing well. This was a mild winter as we only saw the temp. only hit 0 degrees F a couple times, which is atypical. I will add more species this summer and continue on.
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I am John Chen, I am a kid, in science class I was reading a book about carnivorous plants. I thought that the Venus Flytraps were really cool. I was just wondering if you guys have any spare Venus flytrap seeds I could have. If yes please e-mail me at john.chenil@hotmail.com. Thanks a lot, John Chen   P.S.: If any of you guys have spare seeds of a different species of carnivorous plants and you don't have any Venus Flytrap seeds that would be REALLY great too !!!  
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So a little history because, well, my post will one day vanish into the ether of age while new posts take over it's place on page one. Here it is for you to see: http://www.flytrapcare.com/phpBB3/arathi-s-vft-s-t12879.htmlMy name is Arathi, I have always been facinated by the Venus Fly Trap, and it's only recently that I was able to do some proper research and actually understand why the would die on me. Now, I have a few that I bought at Safeway (A Canadian grocery store), and they're in a Exo Terra terrarium. Yes, I hear many say that it's not good for them, yet I also hear a few say they've had no issues. So far, I have not had any issues.I chose a terrarium for several reasons....1. Bugs. I feed my plants 2 week old crickets. I do not manually feed them. I let the little bugs crawl in there on their own accord. I do not want crickets running around my house.2. Humidity. I live in a dry climate (Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Zone 3a) We have (usually) hot summers, and extremely cold winters. I need to move my plants around easily.3. The Dog. If garbage, recycling, socks, and shoes don't bother him, he won't have any issues eating my plants either while I'm not looking.When I first bought my plants at the store, I looked at each and chose the nicest looking ones. I bought three that day for a total of $15, and looking at them, I'm betting I can separate them into several more yet. I plan on getting a nice tall pot for them (or others) that I can have outside in the summer, that I can cover inside during the winter.I may be able to put my plants into dormancy in my garage as I have a furnace in there and plan on keeping it no warmer then 10C throughout the winter, this should really help, but I am unsure as I have never done so before.My gf and I are big into animals as well, and have recently aquired a Pinktoe Tarantula spiderling from the store she works at. It turns out that the female they had, was carrying around what everyone though was a papertowel, but it was actually an eggsack. Now we have this small spider. It's a rain forest spider, and needs high humidity, just like a VFT. I'm going to be building a terrarium for the spider as it's aborial, and lives in trees. I'll have water features in there, and VFT's as well to assist with crickets. I think it'll work nicely, but only time and actually doing it will tell for sure. Stay tuned!Of course, I have an entire year to build this terrarium as the spiderling won't be big enough for it for that long. Right now, it would make a snack for my VFT's it's so small, and I don't want that....Well,that's all for now I suppose, have a great one, and thanks for reading :)~Arathi
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Please visit my new blog site at:www.FlyBoyvft.blog.com
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I have had this plant just a few days and have learnt from some valuable lessons already from this site.  At the weekend I am going to feed it up for going into hibernation. I will upload some pics soon.  
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Posted by on in MyBlog
well it's been a full 2 weeks since i rescued my flytrap. everythings going ok so far but i will try to keep an acurate record of my progress.
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