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By zoliky
Posts:  197
Joined:  Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:30 am
#282483
Hello, I would like to repot a phalaenopsis orchid in a bark mix. I purchased a larger 6" wide transparent orchid pot.

I saw people that drill a few holes in the pots for better air circulation. Is it okay to do that? I was wondering if it's okay to drill three holes on the left side and three holes on the right side of the pot. 6 holes in total. The mix is 100% bark.

Any suggestions are appreciated!
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By evenwind
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Posts:  2160
Joined:  Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:16 pm
#282487
Drilling holes is fine but probably unnecessary - if you're using large (3/4"-1") pieces of bark. The pot appears to be designed for orchids, since it has that raised section on the bottom for aeration. If it were me, I'd just use it as is.
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By xr280xr
Posts:  2807
Joined:  Wed Jun 22, 2011 3:29 pm
#282499
I would just drill them on the sides right at the base so water can drain out easily. With bark, it will be pretty airy and won't retain a lot of water already. If you're transferring from sphagnum moss, make sure you either let it soak in water for an hour or two when you water it so the bark can absorb some of the water, or water it probably daily or every other day. Eventually you can can wean them down to needing water very infrequently, but when they're use to damp sphagnum, they expect more.
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By zoliky
Posts:  197
Joined:  Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:30 am
#283215
Thank you guys! I appreciate the suggestions.
I opened the package today and I noticed some white dots on certain pieces of bark. I suppose that's mold, so I selected them one by one and tried to do my best to remove the ones with mold. Is it normal to have a small amount of mold on the bark straight out of the package? I use the Klasmann-Deilmann bark from Germany. http://klasmann-deilmann.com/en/compete ... lorabella/

These are the ones I selected and I think they're clean.
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By evenwind
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Joined:  Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:16 pm
#283224
In my experience, that sort of bark always has white markings. I'd go ahead and use it.

You might want to look at Pinus radiata bark from New Zealand if you want a better quality but the stuff you have should be fine.
http://besgrow.com/products/orchiata/
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By evenwind
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Joined:  Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:16 pm
#283269
BTW, if the plant you want to repot is the orchid in your other thread, I'd strongly suggest you wait until it's finished blooming. That is, until the flower spike turns brown. Otherwise, you're putting a lot of extra stress on a plant already undergoing stress both from blooming and from new living conditions.
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By zoliky
Posts:  197
Joined:  Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:30 am
#283290
evenwind wrote:BTW, if the plant you want to repot is the orchid in your other thread, I'd strongly suggest you wait until it's finished blooming. That is, until the flower spike turns brown. Otherwise, you're putting a lot of extra stress on a plant already undergoing stress both from blooming and from new living conditions.
Yes, that's the orchid. Thanks for the suggestion. I haven't repotted it yet.
I received the orchid in a smaller pot. The flowers started fading on a spike (probably due to moving shock) but on the other spike they're looking great.
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One thing that worries me is I noticed something strange on a root, looks like a white spot, but it doesn't feel soft or mushy. Is it something to worry about?
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The bottom leaves started yellowing a bit, and one of the largest leaves have a bit of darkening on the edge.
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Also, I have a leaf with a cut. I didn't make the cut. This is how I received it.
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By evenwind
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Joined:  Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:16 pm
#283299
I think the white mark on the root is a callus from previous damage and shouldn't be a problem. The split leaf isn't going to heal but it's not going to be a problem, either. From what I can see, the plant looks to be in good shape.

After the flowers die off, leave the spike on the plant. Cut it about 1/2" above a node. It may re-bloom. Only remove the spike after it turns brown.

Phal roots are silvery-green when they're dry and apple green when they're wet. They must dry out for a while (days) between waterings or they'll rot. Depending on your conditions, something like one watering per week (or less) may be right.
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