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By nimbulan
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Posts:  2395
Joined:  Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:03 pm
#295528
PetroleumJunkie412 wrote:
nimbulan wrote:What are these ideal environmental conditions you keep the plants in? How much light are they getting and under what photoperiod? Any pictures of what they look like before they collapse?
Ok, so conditions pre-collapse have been 75 F day, 65 F night, net pots on an ebb and flow tank, 60-70% rH day, 80% rH night, and a 12 hour photoperiod under t8 6500 k bulbs, 10" from lights. Pots are kept from standing water via grating.

Their death either happens from the bottom up, or lower leaf tips down. About 50-50 on which way they die.
Maybe the humidity's too high? A lot of these South African plants actually grow in pretty low humidity regions, and the pictures of D. regia habitat I've seen seem to match that. I've only raised one plant from seed but I didn't find any special care necessary - just 50/50 peat/perlite in a water tray, room temperature (similar temps to yours, though more like 80/70 during hot days) and lots of food in the form of betta pellets or moths. The humidity is the big difference - it was largely 25-30% when the plant was very small, rarely going above 50% more recently. I also kept my plant under very strong LED lighting. I'm not sure how it compares to your lights, though a picture of one of your seedlings pre-collapse would help.
By Fishman
Posts:  867
Joined:  Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:16 pm
#295535
These are prone to damping off fungus too, so be mindful of that as well. There are ways of pretreating soils for it as a preventative, but once it is already taking ahold of the plants, not much can be done (thats only IF thats whats even happening to your seedlings in the first place.) I also never feed mine... they catch their own food indoors, whatever happens to be in the room that dares to fly around all of my regia plants too much. MaxSea yields no results for me. Been doing it quite awhile with regia and other cps. Mine like to be cold at night, watered and left alone with no human intervention.
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By Bhart90
Posts:  729
Joined:  Mon Sep 07, 2015 1:38 pm
#295581
Respectively, no one will agree with this remark, but mine from seed are in lfsm, have been since "birth" , and are doing great. I also remember to flush the daily (thanks to the fishman himself) that's it, no fert at all,
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By Huntsmanshorn
Posts:  947
Joined:  Wed Sep 03, 2014 6:32 am
#295720
This is how I grew mine. Your mileage may very. Place seeds on a bed of pure vermiculite that is well watered. Place under bright lights and keep day time temps at +/- 85f with a drop at night to +/-60f. Humidity was somewhere around 50% in the room but I never measured it around the seeds so your guess is as good as mine. No covering on the pot. Germination of fresh seeds should be close to 100% and take something like a a week to ten days, give or take. After germination, water with 1/2 strength orchid fertilizer once a week and spray fertilizer on leaves twice or three times a week. Plants will grow quickly at first and then slow. After several weeks in this setup remove seedlings and plant in live, high quality, sphag. Think New Zealand sphag or the stuff from Argentina. Continue to spray the leaves two or three times a week but I cut back on watering because I didn't want the sphag to be too wet. The sphag will grow very quickly but the regia will grow faster and keep ahead of it, although at first, its a little nip and tuck, as the regia assimilate to their new conditions. Don't be afraid to trim the sphag if it does get out of hand. Watch the temps and make sure the plants are getting enough light. You might a few plants after you transplant but you might not, that's just how it goes. Now in my conditions the light and temps naturally decreased in the Fall/Winter in my old grow room so the plants got a nice 4-5 month slow down period, which they seem to really appreciate, something you might want to keep that in mind.
By mouthstofeed
Posts:  477
Joined:  Fri Apr 07, 2017 1:07 am
#295844
i read petar kostov's growing guide up and down and as best i could figure, you do this:

a substrate that pours water right through to the bottom and hot days and cool nights.

my seedlings are not dead yet. we'll see what happens.
By PetroleumJunkie412
Posts:  167
Joined:  Sat Aug 06, 2016 11:27 am
#307255
Well, seems I finally got it right. Only took a laminar flow hood, autoclave, and a few books.

Heh.
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By PetroleumJunkie412
Posts:  167
Joined:  Sat Aug 06, 2016 11:27 am
#312323
Another update just in case anyone out there is still watching this thread.
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By Shadowtski
Location: 
Posts:  4719
Joined:  Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:19 am
#312338
Those are looking wonderful!
How tall are they?
They look to be over two inches tall unless my sense of scale is off.
Do they have roots yet, or just a lump of callus?
Congrats on your success with them!
They should bring in a few dollars.

Good growing,
Mike
By Bhart90
Posts:  729
Joined:  Mon Sep 07, 2015 1:38 pm
#312340
Haha wait till i sell mine Pet. Then you can
By somerandomband
Posts:  134
Joined:  Sun Oct 22, 2017 3:00 pm
#312373
Oh mine is a little jerk too! It makes two new leaves then kills the old leaves. It's covered in dew and beautiful, but I think I'm watering it a bit too much :^
By kronos1996
Posts:  515
Joined:  Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:23 pm
#312464
Hmm.... i’m going to start my seed outside soon. I live in Atlanta, GA Zone 8ish. The same climate that Sarracenia and Dionaea grow in naturally. I think letting them grow up in the real world as opposed to a laboratory may contribute to me ending up with stronger plants in the long run. There are many aspects of an ecosystem which cannot be recreated easily indoors if at all.


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